Cheese: A Staple of the Roman Diet
Unlike their view on other dairy products, the Romans embraced cheese, or caseus, as a central part of their diet. It was widely consumed by everyone from the wealthiest citizens at elaborate banquets to the legionary soldiers on campaign. Its longevity and portability made it an ideal food for storage and transport across the vast empire. Roman authors like Columella and Pliny the Elder wrote extensively about the art of cheesemaking, detailing various techniques and the different types of milk used.
The most common milk sources were sheep and goats, which were better suited for the warm Mediterranean climate and were easier to transport. However, cow's milk was also used. A wide variety of cheeses were produced, including fresh, soft cheeses, hard-aged cheeses, and even smoked varieties. Pecorino Romano, a hard sheep's milk cheese still made today, is a direct descendant of the cheese eaten by Roman soldiers and nobles.
Types of Roman Cheese
- Fresh Cheeses: These had a high moisture content and were meant to be consumed quickly, similar to modern ricotta or cottage cheese. Pliny noted that some of the best fresh cheeses came from the area near modern-day Nîmes in Gaul.
- Aged Cheeses: Hard, aged cheeses like Pecorino Romano were prized for their long shelf life and robust flavor. They could be grated or eaten in chunks, providing a high-energy food source for soldiers.
- Smoked Cheeses: Smoking was a common preservation technique that also added flavor. Smoked goat's milk cheese from the Velabrum valley near the Roman Forum was particularly popular.
The Roman Disdain for Milk and Butter
In stark contrast to their appreciation for cheese, Romans generally regarded drinking fresh milk as uncivilized. They associated milk consumption with rural peasants and the "barbarian" tribes to their north, such as the Celts and Germans. In the absence of refrigeration, fresh milk spoiled quickly, and the sophisticated Roman elite preferred wine and water as their beverages. For cooking, they relied on olive oil, which was readily available, longer-lasting, and culturally superior in their eyes.
Butter was viewed with similar disdain. Romans considered it a coarse, northern food, suitable only for medicinal or cosmetic purposes, like treating burns. Pliny the Elder famously articulated this view, and historical accounts note the Roman contempt for the butter-eating habits of their neighbors.
Dairy Use in Roman Society: A Comparative Table
| Dairy Product | Status in Roman Cuisine | Use in Roman Society | Cultural Perception |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cheese | Staple food, widely available | Eaten by all social classes, including soldiers; used in cooking | Civilized, sophisticated foodstuff; essential for survival and trade |
| Milk (Fresh) | Generally avoided as a beverage | Used medicinally, cosmetically, and in cooking; limited consumption in rural areas | Low-status food, associated with peasants and children; spoiled quickly |
| Butter | Generally avoided as a food | Used as an ointment or in medicinal remedies; olive oil was the preferred fat for cooking | Uncivilized, associated with northern "barbarian" tribes |
Archaeological and Literary Evidence
The existence of Roman dairying practices is confirmed by both archaeological findings and contemporary texts. Excavations have uncovered ceramic whey strainers, particularly in Roman Britain, which provide tangible evidence of cheese production. Chemical analysis of ancient pottery has also detected milk lipids, confirming their use for processing dairy.
Roman agricultural treatises, such as Columella's De Re Rustica and Cato the Elder's De Agri Cultura, provide detailed instructions for cheesemaking and animal husbandry, including the use of rennet. These sources also mention the types of animals kept for dairy, including sheep, goats, and cows. Literary references further confirm the role of dairy products, including accounts of soldiers' rations containing cheese.
Conclusion: More than Just Olive Oil and Wine
While the image of Roman cuisine often focuses on olive oil and wine, dairy, in the form of cheese, played a crucial and sophisticated role in their diet. The Romans successfully transformed perishable milk into a valuable, transportable, and long-lasting food source. Their selective relationship with dairy—embracing cheese while shunning milk as a drink and butter as a fat—highlights the complex interplay of cultural prejudices, technological limitations, and agricultural necessity that shaped the ancient Roman pantry. The evidence from written records and archaeological digs provides a clear picture of a society that consumed dairy, but in a very particular and culturally significant way.
UNRV.com has a detailed article on Roman food, including their use of cheese.