The Dual Origins of Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid has two primary sources: natural biosynthesis and industrial synthesis. Its natural existence in grains like wheat, barley, and rye is a key point of interest for those seeking natural-origin cosmetic ingredients. It is also physiologically produced by a yeast called Malassezia furfur, which is a normal part of the human skin's microflora. This dual origin helps explain why the ingredient is effective both as an antimicrobial agent and in combating skin conditions like acne and rosacea.
Natural Occurrence in Grains
Reports and scientific studies confirm the presence of azelaic acid in various cereals. For example, research has focused on extracting azelaic acid from whole durum wheat grains to explore more eco-friendly production methods.
- Wheat (Triticum durum): Extracts from wheat have been shown to contain azelaic acid, and historically, these grain extracts have been used in traditional medicine for skin treatments.
- Barley: Like wheat, barley is another cereal grain identified as a natural source of this dicarboxylic acid.
- Rye: Rye also contains azelaic acid and has been listed as a natural source alongside wheat and barley in scientific literature.
Why the Synthetic Version Dominates the Market
Despite its natural origins, commercially available azelaic acid is almost exclusively made in a lab. The reasons for this industrial preference are rooted in cost, consistency, and concentration. The amount of azelaic acid extractable from grains is typically too low and too expensive for widespread, commercial use in high-concentration topical products. Synthetic production allows for the manufacturing of purified, stable, and highly concentrated versions necessary for pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications. The most common industrial method involves the ozonolysis of oleic acid, a fatty acid found in vegetable oils.
Natural vs. Synthetic Azelaic Acid: A Comparison
To understand why synthetic production is the industry standard for skincare, consider the following comparison.
| Aspect | Naturally Derived from Grains | Synthetically Produced in a Lab |
|---|---|---|
| Purity & Consistency | Variable. The concentration and purity of the extracted azelaic acid can vary widely depending on the grain source and extraction method. | High. Production is controlled to ensure a consistent, pure, and high-concentration final product for reliable and effective formulations. |
| Cost | Expensive. The process of extracting and purifying minute amounts of azelaic acid from large quantities of grains is not commercially viable. | Cost-effective. Industrial synthesis is a more efficient and scalable process, making it significantly cheaper to produce the desired concentrations. |
| Concentration | Low. Even with efficient extraction methods, the yield from grains is moderate and insufficient for the 15-20% concentrations found in many prescription products. | High. Can be formulated to achieve the precise concentrations required for potent prescription and over-the-counter formulas. |
| Formulation | Complex. Formulating skincare with grain extracts introduces other compounds that may affect stability or trigger sensitivities. | Stable. The high purity of the synthetic ingredient simplifies formulation, ensuring consistent results and minimizing the risk of impurities. |
| Availability | Not commercially available. Extract-based azelaic acid is primarily limited to research or small-batch products. | Widely available. The vast majority of skincare products containing azelaic acid use the synthetic form. |
The Function of Azelaic Acid in Skincare
Whether natural or synthetic, the chemical compound itself is what delivers the therapeutic benefits. Azelaic acid is prized in dermatology for its multi-functional properties.
- Antibacterial: It reduces the growth of acne-causing bacteria by inhibiting protein synthesis in microbes.
- Anti-inflammatory: It helps calm and reduce the inflammation and redness associated with conditions like rosacea and acne.
- Keratolytic: Azelaic acid has mild exfoliating properties that help unclog pores and improve skin texture by preventing the buildup of dead skin cells.
- Tyrosinase Inhibitor: It inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for melanin production. This helps reduce hyperpigmentation, including post-acne marks and melasma, leading to a more even skin tone.
The Role of Grains in Azelaic Acid's Story
While grains are not the source of your typical topical azelaic acid, their role in its discovery and understanding should not be overlooked. The recognition of its presence in these natural materials led to early investigations into its potential benefits, paving the way for the development of modern synthetic formulas. Today, interest in developing sustainable, bio-based sources for cosmetic ingredients persists, and research on extracting compounds like azelaic acid from grains continues, although commercial viability remains a challenge for high-concentration products.
Can you get azelaic acid benefits from eating grains?
No, you cannot get the therapeutic skin benefits of topical azelaic acid simply by eating grains like wheat, barley, or rye. The concentration found in these foods is extremely low, and it is not absorbed and utilized by the body in the same way as a concentrated topical application. Furthermore, the active compounds are delivered directly to the skin for targeted treatment in topical formulas, bypassing the digestive process entirely.
Conclusion
In conclusion, it is a scientific fact that azelaic acid is naturally present in wheat, barley, and rye, and is also a product of the yeast Malassezia furfur on human skin. However, the product you use in your skincare and medicine cabinet is overwhelmingly a result of industrial, synthetic production. This manufacturing method ensures the consistent purity, high concentration, and cost-effectiveness required for effective treatment of skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. The connection to grains highlights an interesting facet of its origin, but it is the scientifically engineered version that delivers its powerful and reliable skincare benefits today.
