A History of Mass Production and Controversy
Bertolli is a household name in the olive oil market, with a history spanning over 150 years. However, its path from a small Italian shop to a global supermarket giant has been fraught with legal and quality control issues. While the company highlights its expertise and blending process, a series of lawsuits and fines have cast a shadow on its commitment to true "extra virgin" quality. The primary issues have revolved around misleading labeling concerning origin and the use of subpar bottling that can degrade the oil over time. For many consumers, the question remains whether the convenience and affordability of Bertolli outweigh the concerns about its authenticity and premium status.
The Labeling Lawsuits
One of the most significant blows to Bertolli's reputation was a 2018 class-action lawsuit settlement. The complaint focused on the "Imported from Italy" label, alleging that the company used olives from various countries like Spain, Greece, and Tunisia, only to bottle them in Italy. As part of the settlement, Bertolli agreed to drop the misleading phrase and be more transparent about the oil's actual origin. Additionally, a 2016 investigation by Italian authorities fined Deoleo (Bertolli's parent company) and other major brands for mislabeling oils as "extra virgin" when they did not meet the required standards.
The Problem with Packaging
Past lawsuits have also criticized Bertolli's use of clear glass bottles, which expose the oil to light. Light, along with heat and oxygen, is a primary culprit in causing olive oil to degrade and become rancid, losing its extra virgin status over time. In response to this criticism, the company has transitioned to using dark green glass bottles for its extra virgin products to better protect them from photodegradation.
Taste Tests and Expert Opinions
Reviews on Bertolli extra virgin olive oil are mixed, reflecting the brand's inconsistent reputation. While some olive oil connoisseurs dismiss it as lacking complexity, others find it a perfectly acceptable and affordable option for everyday use. America's Test Kitchen and Delish have given positive reviews, praising its fresh, fruity flavor, and peppery finish, but these results can vary depending on the batch's freshness and origin. The consensus is that Bertolli produces a reliable, if not spectacular, supermarket-level EVOO that serves its purpose for cooking and general applications.
What Defines a High-Quality Extra Virgin Olive Oil?
Identifying a truly high-quality extra virgin olive oil goes beyond the label. Experts and enthusiasts look for several key indicators:
- Freshness: Quality EVOO has a noticeable harvest date, not just a 'best by' date. The fresher the oil, the more antioxidants and robust flavor it contains.
- Taste and Aroma: It should have a vibrant, fresh aroma reminiscent of grass, herbs, or green olives. The taste should include a degree of fruitiness, bitterness, and a peppery or pungent kick at the back of the throat. Bland, greasy, or stale flavors are signs of lower quality.
- Packaging: The oil must be stored in dark glass or opaque containers to protect it from light degradation. Clear glass is a major red flag.
- Certifications: Seals like the European Union's PDO (Protected Designation of Origin), Italy's DOP, or COOC (California Olive Oil Council) signify that the oil has met strict quality standards.
Comparison: Bertolli vs. Other Olive Oils
| Feature | Bertolli EVOO (Supermarket) | High-End EVOO (Specialty) | Generic 'Pure' Olive Oil |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sourcing | Blended from multiple countries (e.g., Spain, Greece, Tunisia) | Single-origin or specific, traceable region | Unspecified, often refined blend |
| Freshness | Can be variable; harvest date not always prominent; blends may use older oils | Harvest date typically listed; fresh is prioritized | Not fresh; often mixed with older stock or other oils |
| Flavor Profile | Often described as mild, balanced, or fruity; some critics find it bland | Complex, vibrant, with distinct fruity, bitter, and pungent notes | Neutral, minimal flavor; intended for high-heat cooking |
| Packaging | In dark glass bottles now due to past lawsuits | Typically dark glass or opaque container to protect from light | Can be in clear glass or plastic; not protected from light |
| Polyphenols | Present but may be lower than premium options due to age/processing | High levels of polyphenols, providing bitterness and pungency | Lower levels due to refining process |
| Price | Affordable, widely available in supermarkets | Higher price point reflective of quality and production | Cheapest option; often heavily refined |
How to Choose the Right Olive Oil for You
When navigating the vast olive oil aisle, your decision should ultimately depend on your culinary needs and budget. For everyday cooking, sautéing, or pan-frying where a neutral flavor is acceptable, a fresh bottle of Bertolli Extra Virgin Olive Oil serves as a solid and affordable choice. However, for applications where the oil's flavor is the star, such as drizzling over a salad or dipping bread, a certified high-end EVOO will provide a more complex and rewarding experience. Reading the label for a harvest date and looking for protected designation seals can help guide your purchase.
Conclusion: The Verdict on Bertolli
So, is Bertolli extra virgin olive oil high quality? The answer is nuanced. While Bertolli's EVOO is a step above lower-grade oils and offers a decent, accessible flavor profile, it does not consistently meet the high-bar set by true premium, artisanal EVOOs. The brand's history of blending oils from multiple sources and past labeling controversies mean it may not always offer the peak freshness or complexity of oils from dedicated producers. For the average consumer looking for a versatile and affordable cooking oil, Bertolli remains a popular and serviceable choice. For olive oil enthusiasts who prioritize authenticity, robust flavor, and transparency, other alternatives that provide more origin-specific and consistently high-quality products are available. Ultimately, your assessment of Bertolli's quality will likely depend on your specific cooking needs and priorities.
Visit Consumer Reports for guidance on choosing high-quality EVOO.