The Fundamental Role of Fat in Baking
Fat is a cornerstone of cookie baking, serving several critical functions beyond just adding flavor. It tenderizes the dough by preventing excessive gluten development, lubricates other ingredients to facilitate mixing, and contributes to the overall texture, structure, and appearance of the finished product. The type of fat used is perhaps the single most important variable in controlling a cookie's chewiness, crispness, and spread.
The Cast of Fats: Solid vs. Liquid
Solid Fats
Solid fats are typically firm at room temperature and play a crucial role in creating tender, flaky, and sometimes crisp textures. They can trap air during the creaming process, which contributes to leavening and a lighter crumb.
- Butter: The most common fat in traditional recipes, butter is prized for its rich, creamy flavor. It contains about 80% fat and 20% water and milk solids. The water content produces steam during baking, which aids leavening and creates those signature soft centers and crispy edges. Because of its lower melting point, butter leads to more cookie spread.
- Vegetable Shortening: A 100% fat product made from hydrogenated vegetable oils, shortening is valued for its neutral flavor and high melting point. It stays solid longer during baking, which limits spread and results in taller, thicker, and softer cookies. It does not contain the milk solids that add flavor and browning.
- Margarine: Formulated as a butter substitute, margarine is made from vegetable oils and may contain a varying percentage of fat, often with more water than butter. Its high water content and specific composition mean it doesn't always perform identically to butter, and it can sometimes leave a greasy mouthfeel. Stick margarine is generally a better substitute for baking than soft tub spreads.
- Lard: Rendered pork fat, lard was once a kitchen staple and is known for creating exceptionally flaky textures in pastries. While less common in cookies today, it can produce tender results due to its 100% fat content, similar to shortening.
- Coconut Oil: This solid fat has a low melting point but can be creamed with sugar like butter. It adds a tropical flavor, which can be refined away, and results in a lighter, sometimes crispier cookie.
Liquid Fats (Oils)
Liquid fats, or oils, are 100% fat and remain fluid at room temperature. They are unable to trap air like solid fats, which typically results in denser, moister baked goods with a longer shelf life.
- Vegetable Oil/Canola Oil: These neutral-flavored oils are often used in cake-like cookies where moisture is prioritized over leavening. The lack of creaming means a denser, moister crumb.
- Olive Oil: While generally not recommended for most cookies due to its strong flavor, it can be used in some recipes where its robust taste is complementary.
Health Considerations and Modern Fats
Over the years, concerns over trans fats have influenced the baking industry. Trans fats were once common in partially hydrogenated shortenings and some margarines but have since been phased out in many markets due to their link with heart disease. Modern formulations now use fully hydrogenated or interesterified oils to create solid fats without trans fatty acids. Consumers seeking healthier options often turn to coconut oil or even pureed avocado, which can replace some fat while adding moisture and healthy unsaturated fats.
The Impact of Fat on Cookie Texture
The fat you choose has a profound effect on the final texture of your cookie. For example:
- Crispy Cookies: Using more butter or melted fat will cause the cookie to spread more, leading to a thinner, crispier result.
- Chewy Cookies: A mix of butter and brown sugar promotes a chewier, softer texture. Butter's flavor is also key for that classic chewy chocolate chip cookie.
- Cakey Cookies: Shortening's higher melting point prevents extensive spreading, resulting in a thicker, cake-like texture.
Homemade vs. Store-Bought Cookies
While homemade cookies typically use simple, high-quality fats like butter, store-bought cookies often rely on a more complex mix of ingredients designed for cost-effectiveness and shelf stability. Large-scale manufacturers may use combinations of vegetable oils, shortenings, and emulsifiers to control texture and extend shelf life. This can affect the flavor profile, with homemade versions often tasting richer due to the butter's milk solids.
The Great Fat Comparison
| Feature | Butter | Shortening | Vegetable Oil | 
|---|---|---|---|
| Fat Content | ~80% fat, 20% water & milk solids | 100% fat | 100% fat | 
| Texture Impact | Chewy, crisp edges, tender crumb | Thicker, softer, more tender | Denser, moister | 
| Flavor | Rich, buttery flavor | Neutral flavor | Neutral flavor | 
| Cookie Spread | Spreads more due to lower melting point | Spreads less due to higher melting point | Spreads more, leading to flatter cookies | 
| Leavening | Assists leavening via trapped air and steam | Excellent for trapping air when creamed | No aeration contribution | 
| Best For | Classic chocolate chip, rich butter cookies | Thick, cakey cookies, cut-out cookies | Moist cakes, dense cookies | 
Conclusion
Ultimately, there is no single answer to what kind of fat is in cookies, as the type depends on the baker's intent and the desired final product. Understanding the different properties of butter, shortening, and oils allows you to control the outcome, whether you're aiming for a rich, chewy classic or a soft, cakey treat. The choice of fat is a crucial baking decision that dictates the cookie's final flavor and texture profile.
For more insights into how different fats perform in baking, check out this informative article from King Arthur Baking: Butter? Oil? Shortening? Which fat makes the best chocolate chip cookies?.