Why Don't Japanese Eat Raw Salmon Traditionally? A History of Parasites and Marketing

January 2, 2026 •

4 min read

While raw salmon is a modern sushi favorite worldwide, it was almost completely absent from traditional Japanese cuisine for centuries. The primary reason for this was a well-founded fear of parasites found in wild Pacific salmon, a risk that was historically mitigated by cooking, curing, or salting the fish. A bold marketing campaign, known as "Project Japan," was needed to change this deeply held cultural perspective and introduce raw salmon to the Japanese market.

Quick Summary

This article explores the historical context behind Japan's avoidance of raw salmon, focusing on the cultural and food safety reasons. It details the game-changing Norwegian marketing campaign, "Project Japan," and how it altered Japanese perception by introducing parasite-free farmed salmon, eventually making it a modern sushi staple.

Key Points

Parasite Fear: Historically, Japanese people avoided eating raw native Pacific salmon due to the high risk of parasitic infections like Anisakis.
Traditional Preparation: Prior to modern times, salmon was typically consumed cooked, salted, or cured to ensure safety.
Norwegian Initiative: In the 1980s, Norway initiated "Project Japan" to create a market for their farmed Atlantic salmon, which is parasite-free.
Strategic Rebranding: The Norwegian salmon was marketed as sāmon to distinguish it from the native, cooked sake.
Conveyor-Belt Boom: The affordable, safe salmon gained traction in popular kaiten-zushi (conveyor-belt sushi) chains, appealing to a younger demographic.
Modern Popularity: Raw salmon is now one of the most popular and consumed sushi toppings in modern Japan, though it remains a non-traditional ingredient.
Cultural Evolution: The acceptance of raw salmon is a prime example of how global trade and changing tastes can redefine a nation's culinary norms.

A Culinary Revolution: The History Behind Raw Salmon in Japan

The idea that raw salmon is a recent addition to Japanese cuisine might surprise many, given its ubiquitous presence in sushi restaurants globally. Historically, salmon was not an esteemed fish for raw consumption in Japan. The domestic salmon, primarily wild Pacific varieties, were known to carry parasites, making them unsafe to eat raw. The Japanese traditionally consumed salmon cooked, salted (shiozake), or cured to kill these parasites, not raw in delicate preparations like sashimi.

The Parasite Problem with Wild Pacific Salmon

For centuries, Japan's relationship with salmon, or sake (鮭) as it is known traditionally, was defined by this parasitic threat. The native Pacific salmon species migrate up freshwater rivers to spawn, and during this journey, they are highly susceptible to parasitic infections, including Anisakis nematodes. A person ingesting these parasites could become quite ill, leading to a long-standing culinary rule: never eat raw wild salmon. This deep-seated knowledge meant that even though Japan was surrounded by water and had a profound seafood culture, raw salmon was off the menu for traditional sushi masters.

Project Japan: A Bold Marketing Gamble

The introduction of raw salmon as a mainstream sushi ingredient was not a gradual, organic shift but a calculated and ambitious marketing effort by an unlikely source: Norway. In the 1980s, Norway was facing a significant surplus of farmed Atlantic salmon and sought to expand its export market. Seeing Japan as a potential customer, a team led by Bjørn Eirik Olsen launched "Project Japan" in 1985.

The task was monumental. They had to convince a nation with centuries of culinary tradition and a deep-seated distrust of raw salmon that their product was not only safe but delicious for sushi. Initially, Japanese buyers were skeptical, disliking the color, texture, and taste of the fatty Atlantic salmon. However, Norwegian farmed salmon offered a distinct advantage: since they were raised in controlled saltwater environments, they were free of the parasites that plagued Pacific salmon.

The Rise of Sāmon and Conveyor-Belt Sushi

To overcome the cultural resistance, the Norwegians rebranded their product. Instead of the traditional Japanese word sake (鮭), which was associated with cooked, parasite-risk fish, they used the katakana loanword sāmon (サーモン) to emphasize its foreign, farmed, and safe origins. The real breakthrough came in the early 1990s when Norway struck a deal with a Japanese food company to sell a large quantity of salmon specifically for use as sushi.

This affordable, parasite-free salmon found its home not in the high-end, traditional sushi restaurants, but in the new, mass-market conveyor-belt sushi (kaiten-zushi) chains that were rapidly growing in popularity. The chains' focus on affordability and novelty made them the perfect launchpad for the new ingredient. Younger, less-traditional Japanese diners embraced the rich, fatty taste and smooth texture of the sāmon, a flavor profile distinct from traditional sushi staples like tuna or sea bream.

By the late 1990s, sāmon was a permanent fixture on sushi menus across Japan. Today, it is not only one of the most popular sushi toppings in Japan but also a major export for Norway, proving that cultural culinary habits are not immutable.

Traditional vs. Modern Salmon Consumption in Japan


Feature	Traditional Japanese Salmon (Sake)	Modern Salmon (Sāmon)
Origin	Wild Pacific salmon from rivers.	Farmed Atlantic salmon from Norway and other sources.
Raw Consumption	Avoided due to high risk of parasites.	Safe for raw consumption due to controlled farming and freezing.
Preparation	Cooked, salted, or cured (e.g., shiozake).	Served raw in sushi, sashimi, and other preparations.
Flavor Profile	Leaner, with a more pronounced “fishy” flavor.	Fattier, milder flavor, and softer texture.
Cultural Perception	Historically a utilitarian, cooked fish for daily meals.	A trendy, popular, and affordable sushi topping.
Market	Traditional preparations, sometimes found in higher-end restaurants serving historical cuisine.	Dominant in conveyor-belt sushi chains and supermarkets.

The Legacy of Project Japan

The legacy of "Project Japan" is a testament to the power of strategic marketing and the evolving nature of cuisine. While some traditional sushi establishments still refrain from serving salmon on their omakase menus, viewing it as a modern and untraditional ingredient, it has been overwhelmingly embraced by the wider population. Raw salmon's journey from a feared, parasite-laden food to a beloved sushi star is a remarkable chapter in global food history, and a modern testament to a once-unlikely culinary cross-cultural exchange. The change in perception was so complete that raw salmon is now one of the most popular items ordered at Japanese sushi bars.

Conclusion

The idea that the Japanese don't eat raw salmon is a historical truth, but one that has been thoroughly overturned in modern times. The deep-seated cultural fear of parasites in native Pacific salmon was a very real concern for centuries, leading to the tradition of cooking or curing the fish. It was only through the persistent efforts of a Norwegian marketing campaign introducing parasite-free farmed Atlantic salmon that raw salmon gained acceptance. This led to a culinary evolution, with raw salmon becoming a modern staple, particularly in more casual dining settings like conveyor-belt sushi chains. The story serves as a fascinating example of how global commerce and changing dining habits can reshape even the most established culinary landscapes.

Frequently Asked Questions

No, the Japanese have eaten salmon for centuries. However, they traditionally ate it cooked, cured, or salted (shiozake) to avoid parasites found in wild Pacific salmon, not raw.

Raw salmon, specifically parasite-free farmed Atlantic salmon from Norway, was introduced in the 1980s and gained significant popularity by the 1990s and 2000s.

Sake (鮭) is the traditional Japanese term for native salmon, historically eaten cooked. Sāmon (サーモン) is the loanword for the farmed, Atlantic salmon introduced by Norway and consumed raw.

Yes, a Norwegian marketing initiative called "Project Japan" was launched in 1985 to convince Japanese seafood buyers and chefs that their farmed, parasite-free salmon was safe for raw consumption.

Traditional sushi masters were hesitant due to the long-standing cultural association of native Pacific salmon with parasites and the perception of farmed salmon as a modern, non-traditional ingredient.

Farmed Atlantic salmon is raised in controlled, enclosed saltwater pens, preventing it from consuming the intermediate hosts that carry the parasites found in wild salmon.

In the 1980s, Norway had a surplus of farmed salmon, and Japan, facing dwindling domestic fish stocks, presented a huge potential market. The Norwegians successfully marketed their salmon as a safe alternative.