Yes, Ancient Wheats Were Not Gluten-Free
Contrary to popular myths, early cultivated wheats such as einkorn, emmer, and spelt did contain gluten. Some ancient wheats, particularly einkorn and emmer, may have had higher overall protein and gluten content compared to many modern bread wheats. The primary difference lies in the structure of the gluten, formed by specific proteins called gliadin and glutenin.
Ancient wheats often had a different ratio of gliadin to glutenin and lacked the 'D' genome found in modern bread wheat (Triticum aestivum). This genetic difference is thought to contribute to inflammatory responses in sensitive individuals. The weaker gluten structure in ancient grains resulted in dough that was less elastic and produced a denser bread. While traditional preparation methods like sourdough fermentation might have made ancient grains more digestible for some, they remain unsuitable for individuals with celiac disease.
The Role of Processing: Fermentation and Milling
Ancient peoples processed grains differently than modern methods, significantly impacting their bread.
- Sourdough Fermentation: Long fermentation with wild yeasts and bacteria, common historically, helped pre-digest some proteins and carbohydrates, potentially making the bread easier to tolerate for those with non-celiac gluten sensitivity by breaking down gluten proteins.
- Whole Grains: Ancient bread was typically made from whole grains, including the nutrient-rich bran and germ. This contrasts with modern refined flours and also affected dough consistency.
- Stone Grinding: Slower, less aggressive stone grinding produced a coarser, less uniform flour compared to modern roller mills, contributing to the rustic nature of ancient loaves.
Comparison: Ancient Grains vs. Modern Wheat
A comparison highlights key differences between ancient and modern wheat varieties:
| Feature | Ancient Wheats (e.g., Einkorn, Emmer) | Modern Bread Wheat (T. aestivum) |
|---|---|---|
| Gluten Content | Often higher overall protein and gluten content | Slightly lower overall protein and gluten |
| Gluten Structure | Simpler genetic makeup, weaker, less elastic gluten | Complex genetic makeup (hexaploid), stronger, more elastic gluten |
| Gliadin/Glutenin Ratio | Often higher gliadin relative to glutenin | Higher glutenin content, ideal for leavened bread |
| Digestibility for Some | Different gluten structure may be more digestible for those with sensitivities, but NOT for celiac patients | Increased gliadin peptides in some modern strains might be more problematic |
| Baking Properties | Produces denser, often flatter bread; less oven spring | Yields light, airy, high-volume bread with significant rise |
| Yield | Lower yielding crops compared to modern varieties | Higher yielding due to selective breeding |
The Impact on Modern Diets and Sensitivities
The belief that ancient bread was gluten-free has led some with sensitivities to consume ancient grains, a risk for those with celiac disease. However, for individuals with non-celiac gluten sensitivity, the different gluten structure and lower FODMAP levels in ancient grains may result in milder symptoms. Individual responses to ancient grains vary.
The Evolution of Wheat and Human Tolerance
Wheat's evolution alongside humans involved selecting traits for easier harvesting, which influenced starch content and gluten structure. The focus on high-gluten wheat for commercial baking is relatively recent. While human digestion has adapted, not everyone tolerates modern gluten loads. The rise in celiac disease and gluten sensitivity diagnoses reflects our increased understanding of these interactions.
Conclusion
Ancient bread undeniably contained gluten, derived from grains like einkorn and emmer. While the gluten structure differed and traditional methods may have aided digestibility for some, ancient wheats are not safe for individuals with celiac disease. The differences between ancient and modern wheat remain an active area of research.