A History Without Herds: Dairy Before Modern Japan
The perception that Japanese people do not eat dairy stems from centuries of tradition. Historically, the Japanese archipelago's mountainous terrain was not well-suited for large-scale cattle grazing, leading to a diet centered on rice, fish, and vegetables. The few cattle that existed were used primarily as work animals for farming, not for meat or milk production. This was further influenced by Buddhist precepts introduced in the 7th century, which prohibited the killing of livestock and, by extension, discouraged dairy consumption.
There were brief periods of limited dairy consumption among the aristocracy, such as the production of so, a boiled-down milk product in the 7th and 8th centuries, but this practice faded with the decline of the courtly elite. For most of Japanese history, dairy was a non-factor in the national diet.
The Meiji Era and Post-War Westernization
Significant change came during the Meiji Restoration (1868–1912), when Japan aggressively Westernized. The government promoted dairy consumption, seeing it as a way to build a stronger, more 'Western' physique. Modern dairy farming was introduced, but consumption remained low compared to the West. The real shift occurred after World War II. Foreign aid agencies, including UNICEF, provided donated skim milk powder for school lunch programs to combat widespread malnutrition. This effort exposed an entire generation to milk, normalizing its consumption. Over time, fresh, domestic milk replaced the powdered version, becoming a daily staple for millions of schoolchildren.
High Prevalence of Lactose Intolerance
Despite the push for dairy consumption, the prevalence of lactose intolerance in Japan remains high. The body’s ability to produce the lactase enzyme, which breaks down milk sugar (lactose), naturally declines after infancy in most human populations, a condition known as lactase nonpersistence. Populations with a long history of dairy consumption, primarily of Northern European descent, developed a genetic mutation allowing them to retain lactase into adulthood. Without this history, most Japanese people experience symptoms like bloating, cramping, and gas after consuming large amounts of milk. However, the severity varies widely, and many can tolerate small quantities or lower-lactose products like aged cheeses and yogurt.
Modern Dairy Consumption in Japan
Today, dairy is far from absent in Japan. Supermarkets feature extensive dairy sections, and products from coffee creamers to butter are common. Ice cream is particularly popular, and many Western-style baked goods and desserts incorporate dairy. Milk is available in various forms, and some companies even produce low-lactose or lactose-free versions.
Despite its integration, dairy is still used differently than in Western kitchens. It is rarely a central ingredient in traditional Japanese home cooking, contrasting sharply with its role in many European or American culinary traditions.
Dairy Products and Where They Appear
- Milk: A staple of school lunches and a common beverage, especially for children. It's also used in lattes and other modern drinks.
- Cheese: Found on pizzas, in Western-style pastas, and as a popular bar snack. Processed cheese is a significant market segment.
- Butter: Primarily used on toast and in Western-style baking and restaurant dishes.
- Ice Cream: A beloved dessert available in countless flavors, including traditional Japanese ones like matcha and black sesame.
- Yogurt: Popular, particularly functional yogurts marketed for digestive health benefits.
Japan vs. The West: A Consumption Comparison
| Feature | Japan | Western Countries (e.g., USA, UK) | 
|---|---|---|
| Historical Context | Not traditionally part of the diet; introduced and promoted relatively recently. | Long history of consumption, often central to the diet. | 
| Genetic Tolerance | High prevalence of lactase nonpersistence (70-90%). | Low prevalence of lactase nonpersistence in Northern European descendants (approx. 5%). | 
| Culinary Integration | Mostly used in modern or Western-style dishes; rarely a core component of traditional home cooking. | Integrated across a wide range of cooking, from sauces to desserts. | 
| Consumption Level | Lower per capita consumption of milk, cheese, and butter. | Higher per capita consumption across dairy categories. | 
| Dairy Alternatives | Widespread availability and growing popularity of soy, oat, and other plant-based milks. | Significant market for alternatives, but historically less prominent than in Japan due to higher tolerance. | 
The Rise of Plant-Based Alternatives
In recent years, the market for dairy-free alternatives has expanded rapidly in Japan, driven by growing awareness of lactose intolerance and increasing interest in vegan diets. Plant-based milks like soy milk (tōnyū), oat milk, and almond milk are now commonly found in supermarkets and cafes. Major food and beverage companies are also innovating, offering a variety of plant-based products from vegan yogurts to soy-based whipped creams. This trend provides excellent alternatives for those with lactose intolerance or who choose to avoid dairy for other reasons.
Conclusion: A Nuanced Answer
The question of whether Japanese people eat dairy is not a simple yes or no. While a long history without dairy, combined with a high prevalence of lactose intolerance, meant traditional cuisine was dairy-free, modern Japan has embraced many dairy products. Today, consumption is lower and follows different patterns than in Western countries, with dairy most common in Western-influenced dishes, desserts, and school lunches. At the same time, the rising demand for dairy-free alternatives reflects a more nuanced dietary landscape that caters to both health needs and changing tastes. Understanding this evolution reveals the dynamic nature of Japanese food culture.
Authoritative Outbound Link: For more information on the genetic factors behind lactase nonpersistence in different populations, you can read more on the National Institutes of Health website at: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK532285/.