The Historical Context of Australia's Raw Milk Ban
Australia has long maintained some of the world's most rigorous food safety laws, particularly concerning dairy products. The widespread ban on unpasteurized milk and cheese was instituted to protect against harmful bacteria such as Listeria, Salmonella, and E. coli, which can cause severe illness. The standard practice required all commercially sold dairy for human consumption to be pasteurized, a heat treatment process that kills pathogens.
For many years, this blanket prohibition meant that many traditional European raw milk cheeses, celebrated for their unique flavour and complexity derived from the native milk flora, were unavailable in Australia. This created a long-running and passionate debate between food regulators prioritizing public health and artisan cheesemakers and consumers who valued the traditional character of raw milk cheese.
Loosening the Rules: A Change in Policy
The tide began to turn with persistent advocacy from cheese specialists and artisan cheesemakers, who argued that raw milk cheeses could be made safely using modern, controlled methods. This push led Food Standards Australia New Zealand (FSANZ) to review its regulations. Over time, exceptions were granted for specific categories of raw milk cheese that could demonstrate equivalent levels of safety to their pasteurized counterparts.
Notable Milestones in Raw Milk Cheese Policy:
- Hard, cooked-curd cheeses: Early exemptions were made for cooked-curd cheeses like Parmigiano Reggiano and Gruyère. The production methods for these cheeses involve a high-heat step and long ageing, effectively mitigating bacterial risk.
- Roquefort: Following a prolonged legal battle, the French raw sheep's milk cheese Roquefort was permitted for sale after demonstrating it met strict safety criteria, including specific pH, salt, moisture, and microbiological testing.
- 2018 Policy Shift: New guidelines introduced by the Australian government in 2018 opened the door for a wider variety of raw milk cheese imports and domestic production, provided they met exacting safety standards. This was the result of extensive dialogue and safety demonstrations by groups like the Australian Specialist Cheesemakers Association.
- Recent Imports: As a result of these updated guidelines and trade agreements, new ranges of raw milk cheeses have become available. For example, a deal in 2022 allowed for the import of a dozen British raw milk cheeses, such as Keen's Cheddar and Montgomery's Cheddar, which were previously unavailable.
The Strict Safety Requirements for Raw Milk Cheese
For a raw milk cheese to be legally produced or imported into Australia, it must pass a highly regulated approval process. This involves rigorous testing and compliance with the Australia New Zealand Food Standards Code. The focus is on implementing hazard analysis and critical control point (HACCP) plans that ensure safety throughout the entire production cycle, not just relying on a single pasteurization step.
| Comparison of Australian Raw Milk Cheese Categories | Cheese Type | Key Requirement | Example | Import/Domestic Status |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hard, Cooked-Curd | Curd heated to at least 48°C, aged minimum 120 days | Parmigiano Reggiano, Gruyère | Both import and domestic production are permitted | |
| Specific Aged Cheeses | Must meet precise microbiological, pH, salt, and moisture content standards | Roquefort | Import permitted under specific conditions | |
| Domestic Raw Milk | Producers must be licensed and test every batch for pathogens like Listeria. | Pecora Dairy's Yarrawa | Limited domestic production permitted | |
| Unripe Soft Raw Milk | Generally prohibited due to high moisture and risk of pathogen growth | Some traditional French soft cheeses | Broadly prohibited |
Important Considerations for Consumers
While the expansion of raw milk cheese options is a win for culinary enthusiasts, it is crucial for consumers to understand the risks and guidelines. Vulnerable populations, such as pregnant women, young children, the elderly, and immunocompromised individuals, should continue to avoid raw milk cheeses, particularly soft varieties. For these cheeses, the risk of Listeria remains a concern, regardless of whether the milk is raw or pasteurized, as the bacteria thrives in moist, refrigerated environments. Always check the product label for warnings and seek advice from healthcare professionals if unsure.
How to Find and Identify Legal Raw Milk Cheese
Legally sold raw milk cheeses in Australia will be clearly labelled as unpasteurized. Look for information on the packaging that indicates it was made from raw milk, often alongside details about its production and origin. These products will typically be found in specialty cheese shops, high-end food stores, or from specific artisan producers who have obtained the necessary licenses. For example, Pecora Dairy was the first in Australia licensed to produce a specific type of raw milk cheese from sheep's milk.
How to identify approved raw milk cheese:
- Check the Label: Look for a clear declaration that the cheese is made from unpasteurised milk.
- Note the Origin: Imported raw milk cheeses will often come from specific countries under approved agreements, such as the UK.
- Consider the Cheese Type: As a general rule, hard, aged cheeses are more likely to be available in raw milk versions than soft, young cheeses. For example, raw milk cheddars are now available from the UK.
Conclusion: The Modern Australian Raw Milk Landscape
The journey from a near-total ban to a strictly regulated market for raw milk cheese in Australia reflects a evolving approach to food safety. The shift recognizes that while pasteurization is a reliable safety measure, it is not the only one. With comprehensive HACCP plans, meticulous testing, and controlled maturation processes, artisan producers have demonstrated that safe raw milk cheese is possible. This progressive policy allows Australian consumers to enjoy a greater variety of complex, flavourful cheeses while maintaining high safety standards. However, due diligence remains paramount for both producers and consumers, particularly for those in at-risk groups. The once-monolithic wall against unpasteurized cheese has been replaced with a carefully managed gateway, offering both greater choice and continued safety for all Australians.
For more information on imported food requirements, you can check the Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Forestry's website DAFF Raw milk cheese guidance.
