What is Guanine and Why Was it Used in Cosmetics?
Guanine is a crystalline material that is naturally found in the scales and skin of certain fish, especially herring and tarpon. It has a unique ability to reflect light, producing an iridescent, pearlescent sheen that was highly prized in cosmetics.
For many decades, manufacturers would process fish scales—a byproduct of the fishing industry—to extract these shimmering guanine crystals. This "pearl essence" was then added to a wide array of beauty products to give them a radiant, glossy look. While it might sound strange today, this was a common industry practice for achieving a desirable aesthetic effect.
The Historical and Modern Use of Guanine
It's important to understand the context of this ingredient's use. Originally, guanine was one of the few reliable methods for creating a true pearlescent finish. However, the landscape of cosmetic manufacturing has changed dramatically over the years. With increasing consumer demand for ethical sourcing, vegan products, and transparency, many companies have shifted away from animal-derived ingredients.
Today, the inclusion of guanine in lip balm is far less common, particularly for brands that market themselves as vegan or cruelty-free. Instead, cosmetic chemists have developed equally effective, and often more stable, synthetic or mineral-based alternatives.
Vegan Alternatives to Guanine
The market for vegan and cruelty-free cosmetics is growing, and with it, the innovation of new ingredients that achieve the same effects without animal byproducts. Here are some of the most common alternatives to guanine.
- Mica: This is one of the most widely used pearlescent pigments today. Mica is a naturally occurring mineral that is mined, processed, and coated with other minerals like titanium dioxide to create a variety of iridescent colors and sheens. It is mineral-based, not animal-derived, though ethical sourcing regarding child labor has been a concern for some suppliers.
- Bismuth Oxychloride: Another mineral-based ingredient, bismuth oxychloride, is often used to provide a pearlescent and shimmery effect. It is a safe, lab-created compound that serves as an excellent vegan alternative to guanine.
- Synthetic Fluorphlogopite: This is a lab-created version of mica, designed to offer a purer and often brighter shimmer. As a synthetic ingredient, it eliminates any ethical concerns related to mining or animal sourcing.
Comparing Pearlescent Ingredients
| Feature | Guanine (Fish Scale Extract) | Mica (Mineral-Based) | Bismuth Oxychloride (Mineral-Based) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Source | Fish scales (typically herring) | Mined mineral | Lab-created mineral |
| Animal-Derived | Yes | No | No |
| Effect | Pearlescent, iridescent sheen | Shimmering, wide variety of colors | Lustrous, pearly finish |
| Ethical Concerns | Not vegan or cruelty-free; concerns over ethical sourcing | Ethical sourcing of natural mica (child labor) | Generally none, as it is synthetic |
| Labeling | May be listed as Guanine or CI 75170 | Often listed simply as Mica | Listed as Bismuth Oxychloride |
How to Check if Your Lip Balm Contains Guanine
For consumers concerned about the use of animal-derived ingredients, checking the product label is the most reliable method. The ingredient list is typically found on the product's packaging, such as the tube or box. Look for the terms "Guanine" or "CI 75170". If you don't see these specific names, it's highly likely that the pearlescent effect comes from a different source. Furthermore, many brands explicitly state if their products are "vegan" or "cruelty-free", which provides assurance that no animal byproducts were used.
This increased consumer awareness and push for ethical products have been key drivers behind the industry's shift away from guanine. Companies that once used this ingredient have largely switched to the widely available and ethically sound alternatives. If you are ever in doubt, the best approach is to check the product's ingredient list or to contact the manufacturer directly for clarification on their sourcing practices.
Conclusion
The presence of guanine derived from fish scales in lip balm is not a myth, but it is a practice that has significantly declined in modern cosmetics manufacturing. While some shimmering lip products, particularly older or traditionally formulated ones, may still contain this ingredient, the majority of contemporary lip balms rely on vegan and mineral-based alternatives like mica and bismuth oxychloride for their pearlescent effect. For consumers, checking the ingredient list for "Guanine" or "CI 75170" is the best way to ensure their products are animal-free. The move towards more ethical and transparent production methods shows that beautiful, shimmery cosmetics can be created without relying on animal byproducts, giving consumers more choices than ever before.
Further Reading
Final Summary
Does lip balm have fish scales? Some shimmering lip products, especially older formulations, historically used an ingredient called guanine, which is sourced from fish scales, to create a pearlescent effect. Today, however, most modern cosmetics utilize vegan, mineral-based alternatives like mica or bismuth oxychloride, making the presence of fish scales in contemporary lip balms rare. Consumers can verify a product's ingredients by checking the label for "Guanine" or "CI 75170." The increasing demand for ethical and vegan cosmetics has led the industry to embrace these animal-free alternatives.
