The Tradition of Fatty Cuts
At the heart of authentic barbacoa lies the use of tough, fatty, and flavorful cuts of meat that benefit from long, slow cooking. In Mexico, this traditionally means using beef cheek ($cachete$) or even the entire head of a cow. These cuts contain significant fat, collagen, and connective tissues that break down over hours of cooking, resulting in a rich, decadent, and tender shredded meat.
The Breakdown of Connective Tissue
When meat is cooked slowly over a low heat, the tough collagen melts into gelatin. This process is essential for creating the incredibly tender texture and rich, 'lip-sticking' mouthfeel that is a hallmark of authentic barbacoa. Without the fat and collagen, the meat would be dry and fibrous, lacking the moisture and richness that makes the dish special. The fat also helps to lock moisture into the meat as it cooks, preventing it from drying out.
The Role of the Slow-Cooking Method
The cooking process itself is what transforms these tough, fatty cuts into a delicacy. While the traditional method involves cooking the meat in a pit ($pib$) lined with agave leaves, modern versions often use a slow cooker, oven, or Dutch oven. Regardless of the vessel, the principle is the same: low and slow heat.
- Traditional Pit Cooking: Meat is wrapped in agave leaves and cooked slowly in an underground oven, steaming until tender.
- Slow Cooker: The meat is braised in a flavorful liquid for 7-8 hours on low, allowing the fat and connective tissue to fully render.
- Oven: Using a Dutch oven, the meat is braised at a low temperature for several hours, covered to trap moisture.
Flavor vs. Health: A Balancing Act
For many enthusiasts, the fat is not a byproduct but a key ingredient for flavor. However, some modern versions or restaurant preparations, like Chipotle's, may use leaner cuts or trim more fat to appeal to a broader audience. Restaurants sometimes offer different grades, such as 'all meat' or 'regular' with more fat, to cater to different preferences. The trade-off is often richer flavor for higher fat content.
Barbacoa vs. Leaner Alternatives
| Feature | Traditional, Fatty Barbacoa | Modern, Leaner Barbacoa | 
|---|---|---|
| Meat Cuts | Beef cheek, brisket, goat, mutton, or lamb head. | Beef chuck roast or shoulder, with excess fat trimmed. | 
| Fat Content | Higher; contributes to rich, juicy flavor and mouthfeel. | Lower; often marketed as 'all meat' or a healthier option. | 
| Flavor Profile | Deep, savory, and rich, with complex flavor from rendered fat. | Still flavorful from seasoning, but can be less rich and may be drier if cooked improperly. | 
| Texture | Melt-in-your-mouth tender, succulent, and moist due to collagen breakdown. | Tender, but may have a less moist and less 'lip-sticking' quality. | 
| Consumer Preference | Valued by traditionalists for its authentic flavor and texture. | Preferred by those who are fat-conscious or prefer a less rich experience. | 
How to Serve Fatty Barbacoa
Serving barbacoa is a simple affair that emphasizes its rich flavor. It is most famously used as a filling for tacos, but its versatility makes it suitable for burritos, salads, or bowls. Traditional toppings often include fresh cilantro and diced white onion, which cut through the richness of the meat. A squeeze of fresh lime juice adds essential acidity to balance the fatty flavor. For an optional, authentic touch, serve it with a side of consomé, the broth created from the delicious meat drippings.
The Final Verdict
So, is barbacoa supposed to be fatty? Yes, unapologetically so. The fat and connective tissue in the traditionally-used cuts, combined with a patient, slow-cooking method, are the very elements that define authentic barbacoa. It is not a flaw to be removed but an essential ingredient to be celebrated. For those seeking the most traditional and flavorful experience, embracing the richness is key. For those who prefer a lighter touch, modern techniques and cuts offer a viable, albeit less authentic, alternative. The richness and tenderness are two sides of the same delicious coin, and the fat is what gives barbacoa its distinct and beloved character.
For a deeper dive into the art of making this dish, check out this informative guide on what is barbacoa and how to make it.