Understanding the Legal Definition of Ice Cream
To understand why some Breyers products are no longer labeled "ice cream," you must first understand the strict legal definition enforced by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Under federal law, a product must meet specific criteria to be called ice cream, primarily concerning its fat and milk solids content.
Key FDA Standards for Real Ice Cream
- Milkfat content: Must contain a minimum of 10% milkfat.
- Total milk solids: Must have no less than 20% total milk solids.
- Overrun (Air): Must weigh at least 4.5 pounds per gallon, a limit on the amount of air whipped into the product.
Products that do not meet these federal standards cannot be sold as "ice cream" in the U.S. and must be labeled with a different, legally appropriate name, such as "frozen dairy dessert".
The Shift from Ice Cream to Frozen Dairy Dessert
The Breyers brand, founded in 1866, historically prided itself on a simple recipe. However, after the brand was acquired by the conglomerate Unilever in 1993, changes were made to the formula. In 2013, in response to consumer demand for a smoother, lighter texture and lower-fat options, Unilever introduced a new category of products. These products contained less butterfat and included additional ingredients, which meant they no longer met the legal definition of ice cream and had to be renamed "frozen dairy dessert".
The Impact of Ingredient Changes
The ingredient list for many Breyers frozen dairy desserts is notably different from their traditional ice cream counterparts. These frozen desserts often use less cream and butterfat and incorporate more fillers, such as corn syrup and vegetable gums like carob bean gum, guar gum, and tara gum. These additives serve to create a smoother texture and prevent ice crystals, especially in lower-fat products. Some frozen dairy dessert formulas also include whey, corn syrup, and other stabilizers to achieve the desired consistency.
Not All Breyers Products Are the Same
It is a common misconception that all Breyers products are frozen dairy desserts. This is incorrect. The company explicitly labels its products, and consumers can find both "original ice cream" and "frozen dairy dessert" on store shelves. Approximately 60% of Breyers products are still considered ice cream, while the remaining 40% fall into the frozen dairy dessert category. Breyers also offers other options, such as non-dairy frozen desserts made with oat milk.
How to Tell the Difference
The easiest way for consumers to determine if a Breyers product is real ice cream or a frozen dairy dessert is to read the packaging carefully. The label will clearly state the product type. For example, a tub of Breyers Natural Vanilla is labeled as "ice cream," whereas a product like Breyers Cookies & Cream is marked as a "frozen dairy dessert". This distinction is mandated by law to prevent consumer confusion.
Comparison: Ice Cream vs. Frozen Dairy Dessert
| Feature | Real Ice Cream (e.g., Breyers Natural Vanilla) | Frozen Dairy Dessert (e.g., Breyers Cookies & Cream) | 
|---|---|---|
| Milkfat Content | At least 10% | Less than 10% | 
| Texture | Rich, dense, and creamy due to high milkfat | Softer, lighter, and smoother due to stabilizers and less fat | 
| Melting | Melts relatively quickly and more like traditional ice cream | May resist melting and hold its shape for longer due to added stabilizers | 
| Primary Ingredients | Milk, cream, sugar, and natural flavorings | Skim milk, corn syrup, vegetable gums, whey, and sugar substitutes | 
| Legally Defined | Yes, meets FDA's Standard of Identity | No, does not meet the FDA's Standard of Identity | 
| Flavor Profile | Often a purer dairy flavor profile | A broader range of flavors, but can have a less rich dairy taste | 
Breyers in the Current Market Landscape
Today, Breyers operates within a dynamic and competitive frozen dessert market. The company, still owned by Unilever (as of late 2024, Unilever plans to spin off its ice cream business), has diversified its product line to cater to various consumer preferences, including dietary restrictions. Beyond traditional dairy, the brand now offers low-carb, lactose-free, and non-dairy options, using ingredients like almond and oat milk. This strategic expansion allows Breyers to serve a wider audience but requires clear labeling to inform consumers about the product they are purchasing.
The legacy of Breyers's original purity pledge, started by founder William Breyer in 1866, has evolved. While the company still emphasizes high-quality ingredients like sustainably sourced vanilla in its marketing, the recipe for many of its products has undeniably changed. The decision to produce both legally defined ice cream and frozen dairy desserts reflects a balance between tradition, cost-effectiveness, and market demands for more diverse, and often lower-fat, frozen treat options. Consumers who prefer the original, richer flavor profile must now be more vigilant about checking the packaging to ensure they are buying an authentic ice cream product.
Conclusion
So, is Breyers ice cream real ice cream? The correct answer is: some of it is. Breyers sells both legally compliant "ice cream" and "frozen dairy dessert". The key distinction lies in the ingredient composition, specifically the milkfat content, which is regulated by the FDA. Many of the brand's popular flavors, particularly those containing candies or cookies, are classified as frozen dairy desserts because they contain less milkfat and more additives compared to their traditional ice cream counterparts. By carefully reading the label, consumers can easily tell the difference and choose the product that best suits their preference for a rich, creamy, high-fat ice cream or a lighter, smoother frozen dairy dessert.