The Genetic Basis for Cilantro Aversion
The deep-seated dislike for cilantro is often rooted in a genetic predisposition rather than a simple personal preference. At the heart of this phenomenon is a group of olfactory-receptor genes, specifically the OR6A2 variant, which some individuals possess. This gene makes people highly sensitive to the aldehydes present in cilantro leaves.
Aldehydes are organic compounds responsible for the herb's flavor, but they are also found in soaps and lotions. For those with the genetic trait, their olfactory senses are hyper-attuned to these compounds, causing them to perceive a strong, chemical, and distinctly soapy flavor. The flavor is so overpowering that it can completely ruin a dish, masking all other ingredients and making the food unpalatable. This explains why some chefs and home cooks alike find the popular herb revolting, despite its widespread use in many cuisines.
Famous Chefs Who Avoid Cilantro
Some of the most celebrated names in the culinary world have publicly voiced their intense dislike for cilantro. Their professional credibility makes their aversion all the more notable, demonstrating that even a refined palate can be genetically programmed to reject certain flavors.
Julia Child: The Definitive Cilantro Hater
Perhaps the most famous opponent of cilantro is the legendary chef and television personality Julia Child. She was famously outspoken about her disdain for the herb. In a 2002 interview with Larry King, she expressed her revulsion, stating she would pick it out and throw it on the floor if she saw it on her food. This was not a passing fancy but a deeply held conviction, with Child consistently banning the herb from her kitchen and cookbooks.
Ina Garten: The Barefoot Contessa's Disdain
Another beloved television host and cookbook author, Ina Garten, has also confessed her strong aversion. She explained her position on The Today Show, saying, “I just can't stand cilantro... It's such a strong flavor and it overwhelms everything else and I actually think it's physiological”. Garten's candid admission further validates the genetic component of cilantro dislike, showing that even the most seasoned palates are not immune.
Other Notable Chefs with the Aversion
The list of culinarily adept individuals who steer clear of cilantro extends beyond Child and Garten. Other notable figures who have shared their dislike include Lidia Bastianich and Fabio Viviani. Their collective testimonies underscore that a professional chef's skills are not diminished by their personal genetic makeup, but rather their ability to adapt and create incredible food within their own sensory constraints.
How Cilantro-Averse Chefs Adapt
For professional chefs, disliking an ingredient is not an excuse to neglect it for their clients. Their job is to craft flavorful dishes for a wide range of palates. Instead of simply refusing to cook with cilantro, they develop innovative workarounds.
Common Cilantro Alternatives
- Flat-leaf parsley: Offers a fresh, green flavor without the soapy undertones. It is often the go-to substitute in many recipes.
- Culantro: While also containing aldehydes, many with cilantro aversion can tolerate it better. It has a similar, but less intense, flavor.
- Mint: Can provide a refreshing and bright note, especially in Southeast Asian and Latin American-inspired dishes.
- Thai Basil: Adds a distinct, peppery flavor that works well in many of the same cuisines that use cilantro.
- Dill: Provides a fresh, slightly anise-like flavor that can stand in for cilantro in certain contexts.
Culinary Techniques for Managing Cilantro
- Using different parts of the plant: The seeds of the cilantro plant, known as coriander, have a completely different flavor profile and do not contain the same soapy aldehydes. Chefs can use coriander for seasoning instead of the leaves.
- Balancing with other flavors: For dishes where a cilantro flavor is expected, a chef might use a combination of other herbs and citrus to achieve a similar bright, fresh complexity.
- Asking the client: In a professional kitchen, a simple question to the diner about their cilantro preference can avoid any issues, showing both professionalism and care.
Cilantro vs. Common Alternatives: A Comparison Table
| Ingredient | Flavor Profile | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Cilantro | Citrusy, peppery, with some perceiving a soapy flavor | Mexican, Thai, and Indian cuisine |
| Flat-Leaf Parsley | Clean, fresh, and slightly peppery | General garnish, Mediterranean dishes, salsas |
| Culantro | More robust and pungent than cilantro, but less soapy for some | Caribbean, Southeast Asian cuisine |
| Mint | Refreshing, sweet, and cool | Vietnamese pho, mojitos, Middle Eastern dishes |
| Thai Basil | Anise-like, peppery, and slightly sweet | Curries, stir-fries, noodle dishes |
| Dill | Lemony, grassy, and slightly sweet | Pickles, seafood, European cuisine |
A Chef's Professionalism Beyond Personal Taste
It is important to remember that a chef's dislike for a particular ingredient does not reflect a lack of professional integrity or a flaw in their palate. Instead, it highlights their skill in understanding flavor on a broader scale. A chef who can create a delicious meal for someone who loves cilantro, even if they themselves can't stand it, is a true master of their craft. This understanding is key to their success and their ability to innovate with ingredients.
Ultimately, the issue of cilantro aversion shows that taste is not entirely a matter of preference but is, in part, a biological and genetic lottery. For the chefs who draw the short straw, adapting and finding delicious alternatives is all part of the job.
Conclusion
The controversial nature of cilantro is a fascinating culinary mystery with a clear scientific explanation. The phenomenon of why some chefs don't like cilantro is not a quirky preference but a matter of genetics. By understanding the underlying biology and exploring alternative ingredients, chefs like Julia Child and Ina Garten prove that a personal aversion to one ingredient does not limit their ability to produce exceptional food for all.
For more information on the genetic aspect of cilantro aversion, you can explore the findings of food science researchers.