Savoring the Stadium Experience: Foods Inside the Kokugikan
Attending a sumo tournament at Tokyo’s Ryogoku Kokugikan offers a vibrant sensory experience, where the thrill of the matches is complemented by a unique array of stadium foods. Unlike many sporting venues that offer generic concessions, the Kokugikan features items deeply rooted in Japanese culture and the sumo tradition itself.
The Lucky Charm: Kokugikan Yakitori
One of the most famous and culturally significant items available is the Kokugikan Yakitori, or grilled chicken skewers. These are prepared fresh daily in an underground kitchen at the stadium, a tradition dating back to the 1950s. The choice of chicken is no accident; it is considered good luck in sumo because chickens stand on two legs, symbolizing a wrestler who remains on his feet to win the match. The skewers are seasoned with a traditional sweet and savory tare sauce, making them an essential part of the viewing experience.
Chanko Nabe: The Sumo Wrestler’s Diet
For a more hearty and authentic taste of the sumo world, visitors can find small bowls of chanko nabe, the protein-laden stew that is the staple of a wrestler's diet. In the basement hall of the Kokugikan, you can purchase a serving for a surprisingly low price, often made from a recipe provided by one of the sumo stables. This simmering hot pot typically contains chicken, fish, tofu, and a variety of seasonal vegetables in a rich, flavorful broth. It’s a dynamic and warming dish, perfect for enjoying during a long day of matches.
Bento Boxes and Sweet Treats
For a complete meal, various bento boxes are sold, offering a curated selection of Japanese delicacies. These often include tempura, sushi, or roast beef, providing a comprehensive and portable dining option. Sweet-toothed fans can indulge in hiyochan-yaki, a grilled bun filled with red bean paste or sweet cream cheese, shaped like Hiyo no Yama, the sumo mascot. Creamy soft-serve ice cream is also available for a refreshing treat.
Exploring Ryogoku: Beyond the Stadium Walls
Tournament attendees are allowed a single re-entry, providing a perfect opportunity to explore the surrounding Ryogoku district. This area is steeped in sumo history and is home to numerous restaurants specializing in chanko nabe, many operated by retired sumo wrestlers.
Chanko Nabe Restaurants
Retired wrestlers often open restaurants serving their stable's unique chanko nabe recipe, offering an incredibly authentic dining experience. Notable examples include Kappo Yoshiba, located in a former sumo stable, and Chanko Tomoegata, which offers tiered kaiseki courses named after sumo rankings. These establishments provide an immersive experience, sometimes even featuring a dohyo (sumo ring) inside.
Edo Noren Food Court
For a wider range of Edo-period food culture, visit the Ryogoku Edo Noren. Located between the Kokugikan and the train station, this beautifully renovated food court houses several restaurants serving traditional Japanese cuisine. The central area features a permanent sumo ring, adding to the cultural ambiance while you dine.
Comparison of Stadium vs. Ryogoku District Dining
| Feature | Stadium (Kokugikan) | Ryogoku District (Local Restaurants) |
|---|---|---|
| Convenience | Food and drink are sold directly inside the arena. | Requires leaving and re-entering the stadium (one-time allowance). |
| Authenticity | Authentic Kokugikan Yakitori and stable-recipe chanko nabe. | Incredibly authentic, often run by former wrestlers with unique, full-sized chanko nabe. |
| Variety | Limited variety of bento boxes, snacks, and chanko nabe bowls. | Extensive menus with various chanko nabe types, kaiseki courses, and other regional dishes. |
| Cost | Generally affordable, especially for items like small chanko bowls. | Can range from affordable izakaya options to more expensive multi-course meals. |
| Experience | Fast-paced, on-the-go eating while watching the matches. | Relaxed, sit-down dining experience with a deeper dive into sumo culture. |
Conclusion
Whether you opt for the quick convenience of stadium-bought yakitori and chanko nabe or venture into the Ryogoku district for a full, immersive dining experience at a retired wrestler's restaurant, the culinary aspect of a sumo tournament is integral to the event. The food not only satisfies your hunger but also connects you to the deep traditions and superstitions of the sport. From symbolic chicken skewers to the hearty stew that fuels the wrestlers, the dining options are a delicious and educational part of attending a sumo tournament. So next time you find yourself at the Kokugikan, don’t just watch the action—taste it as well.
Additional resources
For more information on attending sumo tournaments and exploring the Ryogoku district, consider consulting a comprehensive guide like the one offered by Japan Guide.