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What Type of Ingredient is Glycerin and How Does it Work?

5 min read

Behind water and fragrance, glycerin is one of the most frequently reported ingredients in cosmetic products today, prized for its moisturizing properties. This versatile and colorless sugar alcohol is a powerful humectant, renowned for its ability to draw and retain moisture in the skin and a vast array of other products.

Quick Summary

Glycerin, or glycerol, is a sugar alcohol and a humectant that attracts moisture from the air and deeper skin layers to hydrate. It serves as a solvent, sweetener, and preservative in cosmetics, food, and pharmaceuticals.

Key Points

  • Powerful Humectant: Glycerin is a moisturizing agent that draws water from the air and deeper skin layers to hydrate the skin and prevent moisture loss.

  • Natural or Synthetic: It can be derived naturally from vegetable oils or animal fats, or produced synthetically from petroleum.

  • Versatile Uses: Its applications span cosmetics, where it hydrates and softens skin; the food industry, where it acts as a sweetener and preservative; and pharmaceuticals, where it serves as a base for medications.

  • Effective in Skin Barrier Repair: By enhancing hydration and supporting the skin's lipid barrier, glycerin helps protect against irritants and accelerates wound healing.

  • Safe and Gentle: Generally recognized as safe (GRAS) by the FDA, glycerin is non-toxic and non-comedogenic, making it suitable for a wide range of skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin.

  • Concentration is Key: When used undiluted or in very dry conditions, pure glycerin can potentially pull moisture from the skin; thus, it is best used in diluted formulations.

In This Article

What is Glycerin? The Basics

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a clear, odorless, and syrupy liquid that belongs to a class of compounds called sugar alcohols, or polyols. Its name is derived from the Greek word "glykys," meaning sweet, a reference to its characteristic sweet taste. As an ingredient, it is known for its hygroscopic properties, meaning it can absorb and retain moisture from its surroundings. This critical function underpins its extensive use across a variety of industries.

A Natural or Synthetic Compound

Glycerin can be sourced in two main ways, leading to two classifications: natural and synthetic.

  • Natural Glycerin: This type is a byproduct of the saponification of animal fats (tallow) or the transesterification of vegetable oils, such as palm, soy, and coconut oil. The latter process is the same one used to produce biodiesel, making glycerin a key byproduct of this industry. The vegetable-based variety is commonly known as vegetable glycerin and is the preferred choice for vegan and natural cosmetic products.
  • Synthetic Glycerin: This is produced from petroleum-based propylene through a series of chemical processes. While its chemical structure is identical to natural glycerin, its origin makes it undesirable for many natural or organic formulations. The purification processes ensure its quality and safety, but its petrochemical source means it's not a viable option for organic-certified products.

How Does Glycerin Work as a Humectant?

The primary function of glycerin is that of a humectant, a moisturizing agent that draws water from the environment into the outer layer of the skin, known as the stratum corneum. Its small molecular size allows it to penetrate the skin barrier and deliver hydration deep within, while also forming a protective barrier on the skin's surface to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The effectiveness of this mechanism is highly dependent on environmental humidity.

How It Functions in Different Environments

  1. High Humidity: In a humid environment, glycerin can effectively draw moisture from the air, delivering it to the skin's surface for enhanced hydration. This is its most optimal mode of action.
  2. Low Humidity: In very dry conditions, glycerin's moisture-drawing nature can pose a risk. With insufficient moisture in the air, the humectant may begin to pull water from the deeper layers of the skin, potentially leading to dehydration and irritation, especially when used in high, undiluted concentrations. This is why glycerin is rarely used in a pure form directly on the skin and is instead formulated with other ingredients to balance its effects.

Glycerin's Role Across Industries

Skincare and Cosmetics

In skincare, glycerin is a hero ingredient for its wide range of benefits for all skin types.

  • Moisturizer: By pulling moisture into the skin, it keeps skin hydrated, soft, and supple.
  • Skin Barrier Support: It helps to reinforce the skin's natural moisture barrier, protecting against environmental aggressors and preventing moisture loss.
  • Smoothing and Plumping: By hydrating the top layers of the skin, glycerin can temporarily plump the skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
  • Mild Exfoliation: Its moisturizing effect helps the outermost skin layer stay hydrated, which makes it easier to exfoliate, leading to smoother skin.
  • Gentle Cleansing: In soaps and cleansers, it helps retain the skin's natural moisture during washing, preventing the dry, tight feeling often caused by harsh soaps.

Food and Beverage

Glycerin is considered safe for human consumption by major health authorities like the FDA and is a common food additive.

  • Humectant and Preservative: It helps retain moisture in food products, keeping baked goods soft and preventing marshmallows from drying out. It also extends shelf life by inhibiting microbial growth.
  • Sweetener and Thickener: Glycerin is a sweetening agent that contains slightly more calories than sugar but doesn't significantly impact insulin secretion, making it useful in diet foods and sugar-free products. It also adds bulk, smoothness, and texture.
  • Solvent: It is an excellent solvent for flavorings and food colors.

Pharmaceutical and Medical

In the pharmaceutical industry, glycerin is used for a variety of medical applications.

  • Laxative: It acts as a hyperosmotic laxative, drawing water into the colon to relieve constipation.
  • Ingredient Vehicle: It is used as a vehicle for numerous pharmaceutical preparations, including cough syrups, anesthetics, and lozenges.
  • Eye Pressure Reduction: It is prescribed orally to reduce pressure in the eyes for individuals with acute glaucoma.
  • Wound Healing: It is used in some topical applications to promote wound healing due to its ability to retain moisture and support skin cell maturation.

Glycerin vs. Hyaluronic Acid: A Comparison

Both glycerin and hyaluronic acid (HA) are celebrated humectants in the skincare world, but they have key differences.

Feature Glycerin Hyaluronic Acid
Molecular Size Smaller molecular weight, allowing it to penetrate deeper into the skin. Larger molecular size, primarily acting on the skin's surface.
Hydration Depth Provides deeper hydration by drawing water from the lower layers of the skin. Offers superior surface-level hydration, creating a plump, supple feel.
Texture Thicker, with a potentially sticky consistency in higher concentrations, though formulations can mitigate this. Very lightweight and non-sticky, often preferred by those with oily skin types.
All-purpose Use Often considered a gentle all-rounder, suitable for most skin types and conditions. Best for temporary plumping and improving the skin's surface texture.
Cost More affordable and widely used in budget-friendly skincare products. Generally pricier due to its more advanced benefits.

Practical Applications of Glycerin

Glycerin's uses are extensive, and its application method often depends on its concentration and purpose. A user can incorporate it into their routine in several ways:

  • As a serum: Many hydrating serums contain glycerin as a primary humectant. Applying these to damp skin after cleansing helps lock in moisture.
  • In a moisturizer: As a key ingredient in moisturizers, glycerin works alongside occlusives (like oils or petrolatum) to create a barrier and seal in hydration effectively.
  • Added to cleansers: Glycerin can be an advanced ingredient in face and body cleansers, where its moisturizing properties prevent the stripping of natural oils during washing.
  • For DIY uses: Pure vegetable glycerin can be diluted with water or hydrosols to create a simple, hydrating facial spray or toner. Mixing a few drops into a lotion can also boost its moisturizing power.
  • As a supplement: Oral glycerin, usually in a diluted liquid or gel capsule form, can be used as a laxative to treat constipation.

Conclusion: A Versatile and Essential Ingredient

Glycerin's role as a versatile humectant, preservative, and solvent makes it an indispensable ingredient across numerous industries. In skincare, it is celebrated for its ability to attract and retain moisture, strengthen the skin barrier, and promote smoother, softer skin. In the food industry, it serves as a safe and effective sweetener, thickener, and moisture-retainer. From pharmaceuticals to personal care, glycerin offers a gentle yet powerful solution for hydration and stability. While it works optimally in humid environments, its effectiveness can be harnessed through proper formulation, often alongside other moisturizing agents. Understanding the function of this key ingredient allows consumers to make more informed choices about the products they use every day. Explore more about glycerin in cosmetics.

Frequently Asked Questions

Glycerin can be either natural or synthetic. Natural glycerin is a byproduct of vegetable oils (vegetable glycerin) or animal fats, while synthetic glycerin is derived from petrochemical sources.

No, it is not recommended to use pure glycerin directly on your face. In dry conditions, its powerful humectant properties can pull moisture from the deeper layers of your skin, potentially leading to dehydration and irritation. It should be used in diluted, well-formulated products.

Yes, glycerin is generally considered safe and gentle for sensitive skin. It is non-irritating, soothing, and can help to fortify a weakened skin barrier, which is a common issue for those with sensitive skin.

No, glycerin is non-comedogenic, meaning it does not clog pores. It is a suitable hydrator for oily and acne-prone skin because it provides lightweight moisture without contributing to breakouts.

Both are humectants, but glycerin has a smaller molecular size, allowing it to penetrate deeper for hydration, while hyaluronic acid has a larger molecule that focuses more on surface-level hydration and plumping.

In food, glycerin is used as a humectant to retain moisture, a sweetener, a solvent for flavors and colors, and a thickening agent. It is often used in candies, icings, and diet foods.

Glycerin supports wound healing by maintaining the necessary moisture for tissue repair and promoting the proper maturation of skin cells, which helps in restoring the skin's protective barrier.

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Medical Disclaimer

This content is for informational purposes only and should not replace professional medical advice.