The Insatiable Appetite: Steak and Ice Cream
Alfred Hitchcock, the "Master of Suspense," was also a master of gluttony, and his legendary diet revolved heavily around red meat and dessert. Accounts from contemporaries, including filmmaker Mel Brooks, vividly paint a picture of the director’s extravagant dining habits. Brooks famously recalled a dinner at Chasen's where Hitchcock ordered a full meal of shrimp cocktail, sirloin steak, baked potato, and asparagus, followed by two servings of ice cream—and then ordered the entire meal again, stating he was still "a bit peckish". The average dinner for Hitchcock, according to biographers, often included three steaks and three bowls of ice cream. His approach to dining was not about mere nourishment but was a deliberate pursuit of pleasure.
The Famous Three-Part Dinner
Hitchcock's dining rituals became a spectacle in themselves, embodying his larger-than-life persona. He was a regular at prestigious Hollywood haunts like Chasen's and the "21" Club, where his specific, demanding orders were well-known. His "double steak" at Chasen's was a staple, often washed down with a special champagne punch. At the "21" Club in New York, he reportedly repeated his order of steak and vanilla ice cream not just once, but twice over. This routine of consuming multiple, heavy courses back-to-back illustrates a deep-seated psychological attachment to food that went far beyond hunger.
A Complicated Relationship with Food
Behind the public persona of the jolly, overweight director was a much more complex and troubled relationship with food. Hitchcock's weight fluctuated dramatically throughout his life, and he was known to alternately binge-eat and then crash-diet. He openly discussed his struggles with his body image, joking about it in public but privately resenting the impact of overconsumption. For him, food was both a source of great pleasure and a cause of deep personal anguish.
A Fear of Eggs
One of the most peculiar aspects of Hitchcock’s diet was his profound fear of eggs, particularly the sight of a broken, runny yolk. He once remarked, “I’m frightened of eggs. That white, round thing without any holes… have you ever seen anything more revolting than an egg yolk breaking and spilling its yellow liquid?”. This phobia is particularly ironic given that his favorite breakfast, quiche Lorraine, was an egg-based dish. Hitchcock explained that he only enjoyed eggs when they were “disguised”.
Binge-Eating and Public Image
As a child, Hitchcock’s love-hate relationship with food began with secretive binge-eating. As an adult, he made his weight part of his public image, using self-deprecating humor. However, this didn't prevent him from periodic attempts at weight loss, including a notable drop of 100 pounds early in his Hollywood career, only to see his weight fluctuate again. According to one memo, producer David O. Selznick even expressed concern when Hitchcock lost too much weight, urging him to "Drink a Malted!". This reveals how his weight became a defining and marketable characteristic in his career.
The Influence of Alma and Home Cooking
While Hitchcock indulged in haute cuisine at Hollywood's finest establishments, he also cherished the simpler, home-cooked meals prepared by his wife, Alma Reville. Alma was an accomplished cook who incorporated various European culinary influences into her dishes, mirroring Hitchcock's own blend of international elements in his filmmaking. Her quiche Lorraine, a slightly altered version featuring ham and hot milk, became a source of comfort for the director and even appeared in his film To Catch a Thief. This contrast between his heavy restaurant dining and the refined, comforting meals at home speaks volumes about the two sides of Hitchcock's personality.
The Hollywood Dining Scene
Hitchcock's dining habits were representative of the opulent Hollywood era, but with his own unique, gluttonous spin. He cultivated an image of a gourmand who appreciated fine dining, but his over-the-top consumption was notable even among his contemporaries. His preferences for steak and ice cream contrasted with his palate for fine wines, including Burgundy, and cocktails like the very dry Martini or the White Lady.
A Comparison of Hitchcock's Dining Habits
| Aspect | Extravagant Dining (Restaurants) | Everyday Dining (Home) |
|---|---|---|
| Typical Meal | Multiple steaks, ice cream, wine | Refined dishes, like quiche Lorraine |
| Purpose | Eating for pure pleasure and spectacle | Eating for comfort and intimacy |
| Environment | Public, high-profile restaurants like Chasen's | Private, home kitchen with Alma |
| Motivation | A combination of indulgence and showmanship | Sustenance and quiet enjoyment |
| Psychology | Binge-eating tendencies; armor of fat | Trust in familiar, comforting food |
Food on Film: Gastronomy and Suspense
Hitchcock’s fixation on food was not confined to his personal life; it frequently bled into his films, often with sinister or suspenseful undertones.
- In Notorious, a romantic moment is framed around the cooking of a roast chicken, linking food with intimacy and affection.
- Conversely, in Rope, a decadent dinner party is held over a trunk containing a corpse, transforming the meal into a morbid centerpiece for the suspense.
- Rear Window features both lavish dining, with lobster brought in from the “21” Club, and the lonely dinner rituals of a desperate character, contrasting opulence and solitude.
- Food could be a vehicle for poison, as seen with milk and coffee in Suspicion and Notorious, or a means to reveal a character's inner turmoil.
- The Paris Review article provides more insights into how Hitchcock used his own body image in his work.
Conclusion
Alfred Hitchcock's diet was a complex and revealing facet of his identity, marked by immense appetite, psychological struggles, and a contradictory relationship with food. From the infamous tales of triple steak and ice cream dinners to his private fear of eggs, his eating habits were as much a part of his public persona as his cinematic mastery. His personal dining rituals, oscillating between lavish restaurant spectacles and comforting home meals, found their way into his films, where food became a powerful tool to heighten suspense, expose character, and serve as a reflection of his own intricate mind. His diet was not simply a matter of fuel, but a lifelong source of pleasure, pain, and artistic inspiration.
