The statement "Why don't Japanese eat meat?" is a common misconception rooted in a long and complex history that ended over 150 years ago. In reality, modern Japanese cuisine includes a wide variety of meat, from pork and beef to chicken, and per-capita meat consumption has steadily increased since the late 19th century. To understand the current situation, one must first explore the historical influences that shaped Japanese dietary habits for over a millennium.
The Historical Context of the Meat Ban
The meat-eating taboos in Japan can be traced back to the introduction of Buddhism in the 6th century. The Buddhist principle of ahimsa, or non-violence towards living creatures, greatly influenced a series of imperial decrees that restricted or banned meat consumption.
The First Imperial Edict (675 CE)
In 675 CE, Emperor Tenmu issued the first official prohibition on the consumption of meat. This edict specifically banned the eating of chickens, cows, dogs, horses, and monkeys during the farming season, which ran from April to September. While this initial ban was seasonal and did not cover all animals, it marked the beginning of a profound shift in Japan's dietary culture. The prohibition was likely motivated by both Buddhist and Shinto beliefs. Shinto considered blood and dead bodies to be sources of impurity, reinforcing the spiritual dimension of abstaining from meat.
Buddhist Influence and Shojin Ryori
Over the following centuries, the influence of Buddhism continued to grow, strengthening the aversion to meat. Monks developed a sophisticated vegetarian cuisine known as shojin ryori, or "devotion cuisine". This culinary tradition used vegetables, tofu, and other plant-based ingredients to create flavorful and nourishing dishes, adhering to Buddhist principles while showcasing culinary ingenuity. This practice filtered down to the general population, making a low-meat or no-meat diet a common way of life for centuries.
Practical Considerations and Social Taboos
Religious philosophy was not the only reason behind the ban. Practical concerns also played a significant role. Cows and horses were far more valuable as work animals for agriculture and transport than as food, especially in a geographically limited, land-scarce country like Japan. Killing these animals for food was simply not a practical use of resources. This led to a strong social stigma against those who handled or consumed animal carcasses, creating a marginalized class of people known as burakumin.
The Edo Period and Clandestine Consumption
During the Edo period (1603-1868), Japan was largely isolated from the world. The official ban on meat continued, and a vibrant, meat-free culinary culture known as washoku flourished, emphasizing rice, vegetables, and seafood. However, this period also saw the development of kusurigui, or "eating medicine," a practice where meat was consumed clandestinely for its perceived medicinal benefits. Wild game like boar and deer were not always included in the bans and were sometimes consumed, often referred to euphemistically, such as boar meat being called yama kujira, or "mountain whale".
The Meiji Restoration and the Return of Meat
Japan's isolationist policy ended in the mid-19th century, leading to the Meiji Restoration in 1868. The new government embarked on a rapid westernization program to modernize the country, including lifting the centuries-old meat ban. In 1872, Emperor Meiji himself publicly ate meat to promote its consumption as a sign of enlightenment and to improve the physical stature of the Japanese people, who were noticeably smaller than their Western counterparts.
The move was met with some resistance from traditionalists and devout Buddhists, but the emperor's actions, combined with the government's push for Westernization and a stronger military, ultimately proved successful.
The Modern Era and Increased Consumption
While the ban was lifted in the late 19th century, meat consumption didn't spike immediately. The post-World War II American occupation had a significant impact, exposing the Japanese population to Western meat-centric diets. Today, meat is an integral part of the Japanese diet, and many popular dishes, like tonkatsu and karaage, are now considered staples. However, the legacy of the historical diet remains, with seafood and plant-based foods still playing a prominent role.
Here are some of the key factors that influenced the historical Japanese diet:
- Religious Principles: The Buddhist concept of non-violence towards living beings drove the imperial decrees and religious taboos against meat consumption.
- Shinto Purity: Shinto beliefs regarding the impurity of blood and death reinforced the aversion to handling and consuming meat.
- Resource Management: In a resource-scarce environment, farm animals like cows and horses were far too valuable for labor to be considered food.
- Cultural Isolation: The Edo period's isolationism allowed a distinct, meat-free culinary culture centered on rice, fish, and vegetables to flourish.
- Western Influence: The Meiji Restoration and post-WWII exposure to Western culture dramatically altered dietary habits and normalized meat consumption.
Comparing Historical vs. Modern Japanese Diet
| Feature | Historical Japanese Diet (Pre-Meiji) | Modern Japanese Diet (Post-Meiji) | 
|---|---|---|
| Meat | Largely avoided or consumed clandestinely (e.g., wild boar, deer). Beef was a major taboo. | Consumed regularly and in variety, including beef (wagyu), pork (tonkatsu), and chicken (karaage). | 
| Primary Protein | Primarily derived from fish, seafood, and plant-based sources like tofu and soybeans. | Includes fish and plant-based protein, but meat from land animals has become a staple. | 
| Religious Influence | Highly influenced by Buddhism and Shinto, with strong taboos against killing and eating meat. | Largely secular in practice, with religious restrictions no longer dictating mainstream diet. | 
| Western Influence | Minimal to none, especially during the Edo period. | Significant, influencing cooking styles (yoshoku) and introducing new types of meat-based dishes. | 
| Key Dishes | Emphasized washoku staples like rice, soup, and small side dishes (okazu) featuring vegetables and fish. | Blends traditional washoku with Western-influenced dishes like Japanese curry and sukiyaki. | 
Conclusion
The question "Why don't Japanese eat meat?" is based on a past that is no longer representative of modern Japanese society. The historical avoidance of meat was a complex issue, shaped by religious tenets from both Buddhism and Shinto, as well as practical, resource-based limitations. The lifting of the ban during the Meiji Restoration, combined with decades of Western influence, transformed the Japanese diet. Today, while traditional elements like seafood and rice remain central, meat is a common and fully integrated part of the country's diverse and dynamic food culture. Japan's dietary history serves as a fascinating example of how cultural norms can evolve dramatically over time.
For more in-depth information, explore the history of meat consumption in Japan on Wikipedia.