From Pottage to Pudding: A Historical Context
The phrase "nine days old" is famously from the nursery rhyme "Pease Porridge Hot," which dates back to at least the 18th century. To understand the reference, one must look back much further to the medieval origins of the dish. Originally, the meal was known as pease pottage, a simple, thick porridge or stew made from dried peas. These legumes were a crucial, affordable food source, especially before potatoes became common in Europe. Pottage was a staple for all social classes and was often cooked in a large cauldron over a communal fire.
The concept of a dish being "nine days old" was a reality of pre-refrigeration life. Instead of being made and consumed in one sitting, a large pot of pottage would be prepared and left over the fire. As portions were taken, new ingredients would be added, and the pot would be reheated. This continuous process kept the food warm and edible for extended periods, and it was a thrifty way to ensure there was always a meal available. The repeated reheating killed bacteria, extending the shelf life of the dense, savory mixture.
The Shift to "Pudding"
Over time, the preparation method evolved, leading to the name "pease pudding." This transition was aided by the development of the pudding cloth in the 16th and 17th centuries. Instead of a watery pottage, the peas could be cooked in a muslin bag alongside a ham joint, absorbing its flavors. This process created a more solid, purée-like dish, which is the pease pudding we know today. Despite the change in technique, the long-standing tradition of keeping and reheating the dish persisted, embedding itself in popular culture through the enduring nursery rhyme.
Culinary Practices of the Past vs. Today
To appreciate the historical reality of "nine days old" pease pudding, it's helpful to compare past and modern food practices. The differences highlight the stark contrast in how food was prepared, preserved, and consumed.
| Culinary Aspect | Historical Practice (Pre-Refrigeration) | Modern Practice (With Refrigeration) |
|---|---|---|
| Preparation | Large, communal pots cooked over a fire, often with continuous additions. | Small, single-use batches prepared for immediate consumption or short-term storage. |
| Preservation | Constant reheating and high salt content were the primary methods of preservation. | Refrigeration or freezing is used to halt bacterial growth, ensuring safety and freshness. |
| Food Safety | Reliance on heating and density of the dish to inhibit spoilage. Some spoilage was likely accepted. | Strict food safety guidelines, with food discarded after a few days if not consumed or frozen. |
| Consumption | Eaten hot, cold, or room temperature, and leftovers were common and expected. | Consumption based on preference, but cold food is typically not kept for long periods without refrigeration. |
The Enduring Appeal of Pease Pudding
While the practice of keeping it for nine days is no longer recommended or safe, pease pudding has enjoyed a renewed interest in recent years. It has evolved from a thrifty staple to a regional classic, particularly in the North East of England, and is now found on menus in modern restaurants. Some chefs are even putting their own modern twists on the traditional dish. This resurgence speaks to the dish's comforting, savory flavor and its deep roots in British culinary history. The story of the nine-day-old pudding is a charming glimpse into a bygone era, where food was a precious resource, and nothing was wasted.
Modern Interpretation and Recipe
Today, preparing pease pudding is a simple affair, with recipes emphasizing freshness and flavor rather than longevity. A typical modern recipe involves soaking yellow split peas overnight, boiling them with water, and then mashing or puréeing them with butter and seasoning. It is then baked or chilled to set. This modern method produces a dish that is creamy, rich, and can be enjoyed hot or cold—just like the rhyme, but with a significantly shorter, and safer, shelf life.
The Legacy of a Rhyme
The nursery rhyme has cemented pease pudding's place in cultural memory, ensuring its story isn't lost. It's more than just a catchy tune; it's a window into the past, illustrating how people lived and ate in a world without modern conveniences. It is a reminder that what was once a common practice borne of necessity can become a quirky, fascinating piece of folklore.
Conclusion
In conclusion, the line "pease pudding in the pot, nine days old" is not a literal instruction for safe food handling but a reflection of historical food preservation techniques. In an age without refrigeration, a constantly simmering pot of pease pottage was a practical way to provide sustained nourishment for a household. The tradition, preserved in the popular nursery rhyme, offers a fascinating insight into the culinary ingenuity of previous centuries. Today, while we have safer methods, the phrase serves as a memorable and educational link to Britain's rich culinary heritage.
For an excellent resource on the evolution of British culinary traditions, see the British Food History website.
