The Historical Rationale: Faking the Golden Glow
The practice of adding annatto to cheese originated from a desire to standardize and signify quality. In the 16th century, English cheesemakers observed a seasonal variation in their milk's color. During the summer, cows grazing on fresh green grass would produce milk rich in beta-carotene, which resulted in a deeper, more appealing yellow cheese. In contrast, winter milk from hay-fed cows was paler, leading consumers to believe it was of lower quality.
To ensure a consistently golden product year-round, some cheesemakers began adding coloring agents. While early attempts used ingredients like saffron or marigold, annatto eventually became the standard because it imparted a rich color without affecting the cheese's flavor. Over time, adding annatto became less about deception and more about tradition, particularly for specific British cheeses like Red Leicester and Cheshire. The practice also spread to other cheese-making traditions, such as the French mimolette.
The Annatto Plant and Its Properties
Annatto comes from the seeds of the Bixa orellana tree, native to tropical regions of the Americas. The red, waxy coating of the seeds contains carotenoid pigments, primarily bixin and norbixin, which are responsible for its distinctive color.
- Bixin: This is the fat-soluble pigment that provides a reddish-orange hue.
- Norbixin: This is the water-soluble form, offering a more yellow color.
This duality makes annatto a versatile coloring agent for various food products. In cheesemaking, the water-soluble norbixin is most often used, binding to the proteins in the curd to evenly distribute color. The extraction process involves separating the seed's pigment through abrasion, traditionally with vegetable oil or aqueous alkali.
Modern Applications and Consumer Perception
Today, the use of annatto is a stylistic choice and a matter of tradition rather than an attempt to mislead consumers. Many consumers have become accustomed to the vibrant orange color of popular cheeses, and its inclusion is a standard part of the recipe for certain varieties. In fact, research has shown that some consumers subconsciously associate the orange color with a better-tasting cheese, even if the flavor profile is identical to its white counterpart. This phenomenon illustrates the powerful impact of visual cues on our perception of food quality.
Annatto in the Cheese Manufacturing Process
The process of adding annatto is relatively straightforward. An aqueous solution of norbixin is added to the milk before the curd is formed. As the curd sets, the norbixin binds to the proteins, ensuring the color is locked in and dispersed evenly throughout the final product. A portion of the annatto may be lost in the whey during production, which is a consideration for manufacturers managing waste streams.
Some cheeses also use annatto on the rind to achieve a specific effect, known as annatto-ripening. This is different from the pungent orange rinds of cheeses like Taleggio, which are colored by bacteria.
Comparison: Annatto vs. Carotene
| Feature | Annatto | Beta-Carotene |
|---|---|---|
| Source | Seeds of the achiote tree | Plant-based, often from fresh grass and carrots |
| Chemical Compound | Carotenoids like bixin and norbixin | A specific carotenoid and Vitamin A precursor |
| Effect on Milk | Added by cheesemakers for consistent color | Naturally present in milk from grass-fed cows |
| Flavor Impact | Mild, earthy, peppery—not typically noticeable in cheese | None directly; contributes to the perceived richness of summer milk |
| Main Purpose | Primarily for cosmetic coloring and tradition | Indicator of a cow's diet (seasonal) |
| Solubility | Both oil-soluble (bixin) and water-soluble (norbixin) forms exist | Oil-soluble only |
Conclusion
Annatto's journey from a subtle seasonal cheat to a cherished cheesemaking tradition is a testament to the power of food aesthetics. Its role in standardizing the appearance of cheeses like cheddar and Red Leicester has shaped consumer expectations for centuries. Today, while most white and orange cheddars taste identical, the addition of this harmless, natural dye from the achiote tree continues to celebrate a long-standing culinary heritage. Whether you prefer your cheese white or orange, the reason for annatto's presence is rooted in history, tradition, and the psychological interplay of color and taste.
Cheeses Commonly Colored with Annatto
- Cheddar: Many varieties, particularly in the UK, use annatto.
- Red Leicester: This traditional British cheese is known for its distinct reddish-orange hue.
- Colby: An American cheese variety that relies on annatto for its characteristic orange color.
- Mimolette: A French cheese with a bright orange interior.
- Gloucester: Used to mimic the deeper color of the rich Double Gloucester.
- Shropshire Blue: Uniquely combines blue veining with an orange, annatto-dyed paste.
