A Historical Nutrition Diet Analysis: When did China start using milk?

November 10, 2025 •

4 min read

Evidence suggests that dairy production and consumption in China date back between five and seven thousand years, challenging the modern perception that milk is a foreign import. The answer to when did China start using milk? reveals a complex history, with dairy popularity waxing and waning based on geography, culture, and economics.

Quick Summary

Dairy consumption in China has a long, cyclical history, from ancient pastoral use to a medieval decline among the Han due to resource priorities and lactose intolerance. It saw a modern revival influenced by Western dietary concepts and state-driven nutritional campaigns.

Key Points

Ancient Origin: Dairy consumption in China dates back 5,000 to 7,000 years, emerging with the domestication of animals like cattle, sheep, and horses.
Nomadic Influence: Early use was prevalent among nomadic peoples and Han Chinese in northern regions, who consumed products like fermented mare's milk and yogurt.
Medicinal and Ritual Use: During medieval periods, dairy was valued for its medicinal properties and was used in Buddhist rituals, indicating an existing domestic dairy industry.
Long Decline: Dairy consumption declined in the mainstream Han Chinese diet due to cultural aversion, limited land for grazing, and widespread lactose intolerance.
Modern Revival: Reintroduced by Westerners in the late 19th century, dairy became popular in urban centers and was later promoted nationwide by the government after 1949 and post-1978 reforms.
Contemporary Staple: Today, milk and dairy are a major part of the Chinese diet, driven by nutritional campaigns, technological advancements, and economic growth.

Ancient Roots: Pastoral Traditions and Medicinal Uses

Contrary to the common belief that milk is an exclusively modern addition to the Chinese diet, its history stretches back millennia. Archaeological evidence and historical records indicate that early dairy production and consumption developed in parallel with the domestication of animals like cattle, water buffalo, horses, and sheep, between five and seven thousand years ago. Oracle-bone and bronze inscriptions from the Shang Dynasty (c. 1520–1030 BCE) suggest that collecting milk from cows and mares was a familiar practice.

This early dairy consumption was not uniform across China. It was most prominent in the northern pastoral regions, where nomadic peoples, and later the Han population, consumed various dairy products. Over time, these products became embedded in specific cultural practices and medicinal applications. For example, records show the consumption of kumiss (fermented mare's milk) and yogurt during the Han and Three Kingdoms periods.

Early Chinese medical texts, including the Xinxiu bencao (Revised Pharmacopeia) from 659 CE, document the use of dairy for medicinal purposes. Buddhism also played a role, as Indian Buddhist texts translated into Chinese required dairy products like ghee for ritual offerings and as tonics for sick monks. The Daoist canon likewise referenced dairy for its health benefits. These religious and medical uses suggest a functioning, though perhaps limited, domestic dairy industry existed in medieval China, supplying items like butter and refined ghee.

Traditional Chinese Dairy Products Mentioned in History

Yogurt (lào 酪): Described as a "thick fluid [from] milk," consumed by nomadic peoples and later the Han.
Fermented Mare's Milk (tíhú 醍醐): A fermented milk beverage of northern nomadic origin, later used to refer to refined ghee.
Butter (sū 酥): Mentioned for its use in medicinal preparations and culinary creations, including a Tang Dynasty dessert called "butter mountain" (sūshān 酥山).
Milk Cakes (rǔbǐng 乳餅): Similar to paneer, made by curdling milk with vinegar and pressing it.

The Decline and Rediscovery of Dairy

Following the Tang Dynasty, dairy consumption among the mainstream Han Chinese population waned for several key reasons. As the population grew, agricultural priorities shifted towards producing grains on limited farmland, leaving little land for grazing animals like cows. Culturally, dairy became associated with nomadic or non-Han peoples, and dairy products were sometimes seen as impure or strange. A high prevalence of lactose intolerance in the population also meant many Han people would experience digestive discomfort from consuming milk, further discouraging widespread adoption.

It was not until the late 19th and early 20th centuries that milk was reintroduced to China by foreign missionaries and traders. Initial consumption was limited to urban areas where foreigners resided, and early dairy companies were established to cater to these markets. Advertisements began promoting milk as a healthy and modern beverage, though it remained largely unaffordable for the general population until later.

Modern Reintroduction and the Rise of a New Dairy Culture

The most significant shift in milk consumption began after the founding of the People's Republic of China in 1949. The government promoted dairy as a nutritional food source, building state-owned dairy farms. The economic reforms of the Deng Xiaoping era starting in 1978 further accelerated this trend by encouraging private ownership and expanding production. By the 1990s, the dairy industry had exploded, and campaigns like the "National Student Drinking Milk Program" in 2000 cemented milk's image as a foundation for a strong, modern nation. This large-scale, state-backed promotion, combined with rising disposable income, significantly changed dietary habits and made dairy a staple food for many Chinese.

Comparison of Historical Chinese Diet with Dairy


Feature	Ancient/Medieval Chinese Diet (Han)	Modern Chinese Diet (Post-1990s)
Dairy Presence	Limited to specific regions (North), minorities (Mongolian, Tibetan), and medicinal/ritual contexts.	Widespread availability and consumption across the country.
Primary Dairy Animals	Mare's and goat's milk were common, along with cow and water buffalo milk.	Primarily cow's milk, thanks to the introduction of Western breeds like Holstein.
Reasons for Consumption	Medicinal benefits, ritual purposes (Buddhism), and regional/ethnic dietary tradition.	Promoted for nutritional value, especially for calcium and protein; a sign of modern, healthy living.
Dominant Dairy Products	Fermented products like yogurt (lào), butter, and ghee.	Pasteurized and UHT (long-life) milk, flavored yogurts, and a variety of cheeses.
Key Calcium Sources	Mainly plant-based foods, such as vegetables and soy products.	Dairy products have become a major source of calcium, supplementing plant-based sources.
Cultural Perception	Often viewed with suspicion or associated with "barbarian" peoples, contributing to an aversion.	Widely accepted as a nutritious food, though some still have genetic intolerances.

The Contemporary Dairy Market in China

Today, China is a dominant force in the global dairy market, both as a producer and an importer. Large-scale, high-tech dairy farms operate alongside established state-backed corporations and a growing number of private enterprises. The market is diverse, offering not only liquid milk but also a wide array of yogurts, flavored milks, and an increasing variety of cheeses.

However, the nutritional landscape is still shaped by the long historical relationship with dairy. Many Chinese adults remain lactose intolerant, and while modern processing and education have helped, traditional alternatives like soymilk still hold a significant place in the national diet. The journey of milk in China illustrates how cultural and biological factors interact with policy and economic development to reshape a nation's dietary habits.

Conclusion

The question "When did China start using milk?" cannot be answered with a single date but rather a historical narrative of cyclical change. From ancient consumption rooted in pastoral traditions and medicinal practice, dairy faded from the mainstream Han diet for centuries, leaving a gap filled by other calcium-rich sources. Its modern revival, driven by government policy and economic growth, represents a dramatic dietary shift in a relatively short period. The story of milk in China is a testament to the dynamic interplay of tradition, culture, and progress in shaping a nation's nutrition diet.

Frequently Asked Questions

Yes, ancient Han Chinese did consume milk and dairy products. Historical evidence indicates consumption as far back as the Shang Dynasty, and during the Tang and Song dynasties, dairy products like yogurt, cheese, and butter were known and consumed, though perhaps not universally.

The decline of dairy consumption was caused by a combination of factors. With a growing population, limited farmland was prioritized for staple crops over livestock grazing, making dairy expensive. It was also culturally associated with non-Han groups and was not well-tolerated due to widespread lactose intolerance.

Milk began to regain popularity in China in the early 20th century, but its widespread adoption was most pronounced after the founding of the People's Republic of China in 1949. Government promotion for nutritional benefits, accelerated by post-1978 economic reforms, made it a staple in the modern diet.

Yes, a high percentage of the Chinese population is lactose intolerant. This genetic predisposition contributed to the historical lack of dairy in the mainstream Han diet. However, modern products like yogurt and lactose-free milk are widely available.

Cheese has a longer history in China than many realize, with evidence of various forms appearing in different periods. Traditional cheeses exist in specific regions (like Yunnan and Inner Mongolia). However, Western-style cheese became more widespread only in recent decades, driven by increased international culinary influence.

Since 1949, the government has actively promoted dairy, especially milk, as a source of nutrition. Major initiatives, such as the "National Student Drinking Milk Program," encouraged widespread consumption. Economic reforms also fostered a large-scale, modern dairy industry.

Before modern dairy consumption, the traditional Chinese diet obtained calcium primarily from plant-based foods. Sources included vegetables, tofu, soy products, and animal products like bone-in fish, which were part of a diversified diet.