The Botanical Truth: A Vegetable in Disguise
For many, the mention of rhubarb conjures images of sweet pies, crumbles, and jams, always paired with plenty of sugar to balance its signature sour bite. However, this culinary pigeonholing doesn't reflect its botanical reality. Rhubarb is, and has always been, a vegetable. Belonging to the family Polygonaceae, it is related to sorrel and buckwheat, not fruits like strawberries or apples. The misconception stems from its culinary use and, notably, the 1947 U.S. Customs Court ruling that legally defined it as a fruit for trade purposes.
Embracing Rhubarb's Savory Side
The tartness that makes rhubarb a perfect counterpoint to sweet desserts also makes it a powerful ingredient in savory cuisine. Its acidity can cut through the richness of fatty meats, provide a zesty dimension to sauces, and add a complex flavor to relishes and chutneys. This is not a new concept; cultures in the Middle East and parts of Europe have used rhubarb in savory dishes for centuries.
Global Inspiration for Savory Rhubarb
Across the world, innovative chefs and home cooks have been leveraging rhubarb's unique profile in unexpected ways. Some recipes have a long history, while others are modern adaptations.
- Relishes and Chutneys: The classic rhubarb chutney, often featuring warm spices, vinegar, and aromatics like ginger and garlic, is a staple in many cuisines. Its tangy flavor makes it an excellent accompaniment for cheeses, grilled meats, and savory pastries.
- Sauces for Meat and Fish: Think of rhubarb as an alternative to applesauce or cranberry sauce. It pairs exceptionally well with rich poultry like duck and hearty cuts of pork. A rhubarb and brown sugar sauce is a modern favorite for skillet-fried pork chops. For a lighter pairing, a rhubarb compote can be served with fish.
- Stews and Tagines: In countries like Afghanistan and Iran, rhubarb is a traditional ingredient in stews. An Afghan dish called "Qorma-e-rawash" combines rhubarb with lamb and spices, creating a layered and comforting dish.
- Pickled Rhubarb: Pickling the crisp stalks in a brine with spices, vinegar, and sugar creates a flavorful condiment. Pickled rhubarb can be used to add a tangy crunch to salads, slaws, or served alongside oily fish or smoked mackerel.
- Salsas and Vinaigrettes: Diced and combined with citrus, onion, and herbs, rhubarb can form a bracing salsa that perfectly complements fish tacos. For a vinaigrette, a cooked rhubarb puree can be blended with olive oil and vinegar.
Rhubarb Preparation Tips
When using rhubarb, remember to use only the stalks and discard the leaves, which contain toxic oxalic acid. The stalks are fibrous, but cooking softens them and breaks down the fibers, making peeling unnecessary for most applications. However, for a very stringy, older stalk, a light peel can help. As an acidic ingredient, it's best to cook rhubarb in a non-reactive pan made of stainless steel, glass, or enamel to prevent it from turning grey.
Savory Rhubarb vs. Sweet Rhubarb: A Comparison
To highlight the differences and considerations for each culinary path, here is a comparison of using rhubarb in savory versus sweet dishes.
| Aspect | Sweet Rhubarb Dishes | Savory Rhubarb Dishes |
|---|---|---|
| Flavor Profile | Mostly sweet with a tart undertone, often paired with other sweet fruits like strawberries. | Tangy and acidic, cutting through rich flavors and adding a complex sour note. |
| Common Pairings | Strawberries, ginger, vanilla, cinnamon, custard, whipped cream. | Pork, duck, lamb, oily fish, goat cheese, strong herbs like thyme and rosemary. |
| Typical Preparations | Pies, crumbles, jams, fools, compotes. | Chutneys, sauces, relishes, stews, marinades, pickled items. |
| Preparation Role | Primarily a dessert fruit-like component, balanced by a high amount of added sugar. | A vegetable component used to balance and contrast other flavors, requiring less added sugar. |
| Cultural Context | Highly prominent in Northern European and North American dessert traditions. | Historically used in Middle Eastern cuisine and experiencing a modern revival in global cooking. |
Conclusion
Rhubarb's common use in sugary desserts has unfairly overshadowed its true potential as a versatile vegetable. Its naturally tart and tangy flavor, far from being a limitation, is a culinary asset that can elevate a wide range of savory dishes, from hearty stews and roast meat sauces to bright and zesty chutneys. Embracing its savory applications not only opens up a new world of flavor but also pays homage to its botanical roots and diverse global uses. So next time you see those red stalks at the market, think beyond pie and get creative with a savory masterpiece. You might be surprised by how this “pie plant” can transform your dinner plate. For further inspiration on savory uses, the Rhubarborium website offers a variety of global recipes.