The Origin of the MSG Scare
Monosodium glutamate, or MSG, was first discovered in 1908 by Japanese biochemist Kikunae Ikeda, who identified it as the source of the savory, or 'umami,' flavor in seaweed broth. The seasoning was widely used and celebrated in East Asian cuisine and later became a staple in many Western processed foods, from canned soups to TV dinners. For decades, it was enjoyed without controversy. The backlash began in 1968 with a letter published in the New England Journal of Medicine by a doctor who reported experiencing symptoms like numbness, weakness, and heart palpitations after eating at Chinese restaurants. He speculated on several possible causes, including MSG, but the media quickly seized on the MSG angle and sensationalized the claims. This led to the creation of the stigmatized and now-outdated term 'Chinese Restaurant Syndrome'.
The Flawed Scientific Foundation of the Fear
Following the media frenzy, scientists rushed to study the supposed link between MSG and the reported symptoms. However, much of the early research was deeply flawed in its methodology. This includes a notorious 1969 study where massive doses of MSG were injected into infant mice, leading to negative health outcomes. The doses were wildly excessive and administered in a way that has no relevance to typical human dietary consumption. Furthermore, many early human trials lacked proper blinding. Participants who were aware they were receiving MSG often reported symptoms, suggesting a strong placebo effect influenced by public fear and negative expectations. Over the past few decades, more rigorous, properly controlled studies have failed to replicate these earlier findings or establish a consistent causal link between normal dietary MSG consumption and adverse reactions.
The Role of Xenophobia and Racism
An essential, yet often overlooked, part of the MSG controversy is the role of prejudice. Food historians and sociologists note that the fear of MSG was not a coincidence but rather a reflection of broader anti-Asian sentiment in the West. While many American products like canned soups and snack chips contained MSG without issue, the fear disproportionately targeted Chinese food, which was often viewed with suspicion. Anthony Bourdain famously commented, "You know what causes Chinese Restaurant Syndrome? Racism.". This led many Chinese restaurants to post 'No MSG' signs to appease fearful customers, unintentionally reinforcing the myth. Today, efforts by organizations like the Ajinomoto Group and food enthusiasts are working to combat these outdated, xenophobic perceptions and reclaim MSG's culinary reputation.
The Modern Understanding of MSG and Human Health
Regulatory bodies worldwide, including the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the Joint FAO/WHO Expert Committee on Food Additives (JECFA), have long classified MSG as "generally recognized as safe" (GRAS). The body processes glutamate from natural sources (like cheese, tomatoes, and mushrooms) and added MSG identically. Most people experience no ill effects from moderate MSG consumption. For a small subset of the population (less than 1%), a condition called "MSG symptom complex" can cause mild, temporary symptoms like headaches, flushing, or nausea, particularly after consuming large doses of MSG on an empty stomach. However, these are not true allergic reactions, and the effects are typically short-lived. The International Headache Society even removed MSG from its list of causal factors for headaches due to a lack of scientific evidence.
How MSG Benefits and Compares to Other Additives
Beyond its unfairly maligned reputation, MSG offers a practical benefit in modern nutrition. It contains only about one-third of the sodium of table salt, making it a valuable tool for home cooks looking to reduce sodium intake without sacrificing flavor. A judicious mix of salt and MSG can significantly lower the overall sodium content in a meal. The food industry also uses various ingredients that naturally contain glutamates, which food manufacturers are not required to label as "MSG".
Comparing Natural and Added Glutamate
| Feature | Natural Glutamate | Added MSG |
|---|---|---|
| Source | Found naturally in foods like tomatoes, mushrooms, aged cheese, and seaweed. | Produced by the fermentation of starches or sugarcane. |
| Chemical Identity | Chemically identical to the glutamate in MSG once consumed and metabolized by the body. | A stabilized sodium salt of glutamic acid. |
| Body's Processing | The body metabolizes it in the same way as added MSG. | The body metabolizes it in the same way as natural glutamate. |
| Associated Fear | No historical stigma; widely accepted. | Historical stigma rooted in flawed science and xenophobia. |
Conclusion
The negative reputation and fear surrounding MSG were never based on sound science but rather on a combination of flawed research, sensational media, and prevailing cultural biases. Today, most major health and food safety organizations agree that MSG is a safe and harmless flavor enhancer for the general population when consumed in moderation. While a very small percentage of individuals may experience mild, short-term sensitivity to large doses, the widespread idea that MSG is a toxic additive is a myth. By separating fact from fiction, consumers can better understand the ingredient and appreciate its role in adding the complex, savory flavor of umami to food.
For more information on food additives, consult the U.S. Food and Drug Administration's official guidance on MSG safety.
