A History of Sweetness: Sugar's Role in China
Chinese people have been consuming sugar for thousands of years, with early forms like maltose and refined sugarcane-derived sugars becoming available historically. Unlike many Western traditions where sugar was a core component of desserts, in China, it has been used more as a seasoning to balance and enhance the five flavors: sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and pungent. This perspective is deeply rooted in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), which emphasizes balance and moderation. A traditional Chinese compliment for a dessert is even "not too sweet".
Traditional uses of sugar in Chinese cuisine
Chinese cooking uses sugar for more than just dessert. It is a vital ingredient for creating complex flavors and is particularly prevalent in regional cuisines.
- Flavor Enhancement: A small amount of rock sugar or red sugar is often added to savory dishes to enhance flavors, soften saltiness, and add a glossy finish, such as in hóng shāo ròu (red-braised pork belly).
- Preservation: Historically, sugar was used to preserve fruits and other foods.
- Medicinal Properties: In TCM, red sugar (hóng táng) is considered warming and nourishing, often used in teas and postpartum recovery meals.
- Traditional Sweets: While not as prevalent as in the West, traditional sweets do exist. Examples include tanghulu (sugar-coated fruits) and sweet glutinous rice cakes (cí bā).
Shifting Trends: Rising Consumption and Health Awareness
Despite a history of moderate consumption, modern trends are rapidly changing. As China's economy has grown and urbanization has increased, so has access to processed foods, sweet beverages, and Western-style desserts. This has led to a significant increase in overall sugar intake, particularly among younger generations.
The rise of sugar-sweetened beverages (SSBs)
One of the most significant drivers of increased sugar intake is the soaring popularity of SSBs like milk tea and soda. A 2021 study on Chinese adolescents found that the average intake of free sugars was 53.1 g/day, with SSBs being the primary contributor. In response, a booming market for sugar-free products and sugar substitutes is emerging, especially among health-conscious consumers in first-tier cities.
Health consequences of rising sugar intake
This increase in sugar consumption has coincided with a dramatic rise in diet-related diseases. China now has more diabetic patients than any other country, with a prevalence that has exploded over the last few decades. The World Health Organization (WHO) and China's National Health Commission (NHC) have both released guidelines urging a reduction in sugar intake to combat the health crisis.
| Aspect of Consumption | Traditional Chinese Diet | Modern Chinese Diet (Trends) |
|---|---|---|
| Primary Function of Sugar | Flavor enhancer and balancing agent in savory and sweet dishes. | Sweetener for drinks, snacks, and Western-style desserts. |
| Sweetness Perception | Preference for mild sweetness; complimenting a dessert as "not too sweet". | Increased tolerance for and preference for intense sweetness, driven by Western influence. |
| Main Sources of Sugar | Unrefined sugars like rock and red sugar in cooking; sweet soups and rare traditional treats. | Sugar-sweetened beverages (bubble tea, sodas) and processed snacks. |
| Health Concerns | Historical focus on balance and medicinal properties of food. | Alarmingly high rates of type 2 diabetes and obesity linked to excessive sugar intake. |
| Consumer Response | Traditional moderation and seasonal enjoyment of sweets. | Growing health consciousness, driving the booming market for sugar-free products. |
The Government's Role and Consumer Response
Recognizing the public health implications, the Chinese government has initiated policies to address high sugar consumption. The "Healthy China Initiative (2019–2030)" promotes reduced sugar intake, improved labeling standards, and restricted sales of high-sugar foods. Producers are also increasingly using cheaper and calorie-free sugar substitutes like erythritol and sucralose in beverages to cater to health-conscious consumers, although cost remains a factor for some high-end alternatives. This move is fueled by both cost-driven incentives for manufacturers and evolving consumer preferences.
The cultural view of sugar as a special treat has persisted in some ways. However, a new generation is actively participating in "quitting sugar" movements on social media, reflecting a deep concern over health and appearance. The availability of food and wealth have fundamentally shifted the national dialogue from food scarcity to nutritional excess.
Conclusion
Yes, Chinese people do consume sugar, but their relationship with it is far more nuanced and dynamic than often assumed. Historically integrated as a flavor enhancer and a medicinal element rather than a dominant taste, sugar consumption patterns have shifted dramatically with economic growth and urbanization. While traditional preferences leaned toward moderate sweetness, a modern surge in processed foods and sugary drinks has caused a rise in health issues like diabetes. This, in turn, has spurred a counter-movement towards health awareness, supported by government initiatives and a flourishing market for sugar-free products. The narrative of Chinese sugar consumption is one of tradition meeting modernity, health concerns challenging indulgence, and a growing consumer market grappling with evolving priorities.
[World Health Organization. Healthy diet. URL: https://www.who.int/china/health-topics/healthy-diet]