The Edibility of Fragrant Sumac (Rhus aromatica)
For centuries, indigenous peoples have used the bright red berries of the fragrant sumac for food and medicine. It’s a common misconception that all sumac is poisonous, but only varieties with white berries, like poison sumac (Toxicodendron vernix), pose a threat. The key to safety lies in confident and accurate identification. The tart, citrusy flavor of fragrant sumac berries can be used to make a refreshing lemonade-like drink, or the dried and ground berries can be used as a seasoning. The fragrant sumac shrub itself is a hardy native plant, valued not only for its culinary uses but also for its vibrant fall foliage and ability to attract wildlife.
Identifying Fragrant Sumac: What to Look For
To ensure you are harvesting the correct plant, pay close attention to its defining characteristics throughout the season:
- Leaves: Fragrant sumac leaves grow in clusters of three leaflets, similar to poison ivy, but the key is that they are toothed or lobed along their edges. When crushed, the leaves and twigs emit a distinct, citrusy fragrance, which is a major giveaway. In autumn, the foliage turns brilliant shades of orange and red.
- Berries: The fruit of the fragrant sumac is a dense cluster of round, red, and hairy berries. These clusters stand upright, pointing towards the sky at the ends of the branches. They ripen in late summer and can persist through the winter.
- Habitat: Unlike poisonous sumac, which prefers wet, swampy areas, fragrant sumac thrives in dry, well-drained soils, often found on hillsides, in open woods, and along roadsides.
Comparing Edible and Poisonous Sumac
Proper identification is critical to avoid any adverse reactions. The following table highlights the key differences between edible fragrant sumac and the highly toxic poison sumac (Toxicodendron vernix).
| Feature | Fragrant Sumac (Rhus aromatica) | Poison Sumac (Toxicodendron vernix) |
|---|---|---|
| Berry Color | Red, fuzzy, and upright-growing clusters | White, smooth, and drooping clusters |
| Habitat | Dry, sandy soils, hillsides, and woodlands | Wet, swampy areas and bogs |
| Leaflets | Three leaflets with toothed or lobed edges | 7 to 13 leaflets with smooth edges |
| Leaf Fragrance | Distinct citrusy fragrance when crushed | No distinct odor |
| Twigs | Brownish-gray with a few rust-colored lenticels | Smooth, often with reddish-brown tips |
Culinary Uses and Preparation
The berries of fragrant sumac, often referred to as “lemonade berry” or “lemon sumac,” can be used in a variety of ways to impart a tangy, sour flavor.
Recipes and Uses:
- Sumac Lemonade: The most popular use is steeping the ripe red berries in cold water for several hours to create a refreshing, vitamin C-rich beverage. Hot water is not recommended as it can extract bitter tannins. Sweeten the resulting tangy liquid with honey or sugar to taste.
- Ground Spice: The dried berries can be ground into a powder to be used as a spice. This powder adds a zesty, lemony flavor to Middle Eastern and Mediterranean-inspired dishes, marinades, dressings, and spice rubs.
- Jelly and Syrup: The extracted sumac liquid can be boiled down with sugar and pectin to create a tangy jelly or syrup, perfect for drizzling over pancakes or toast.
- Flavoring: Fresh or dried sumac can be used to add a pop of flavor to rice dishes, grilled meats, and roasted vegetables.
How to Harvest and Store
Harvesting is straightforward, but timing is important. The berries are best harvested in mid-to-late summer, once they have turned a deep red and before any heavy rains have washed off the malic acid that gives them their flavor.
- Use a pair of scissors or pruners to snip the entire upright berry cluster (called a "drupe" or "bob") from the plant.
- For immediate use, berries can be used fresh for lemonade.
- For long-term storage, dry the entire cluster in a warm, well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight. Once dry, you can remove the individual berries by hand or with a blender.
- Store dried, ground sumac in an airtight container in a cool, dark place to preserve its potency.
Important Safety Precautions
While fragrant sumac is perfectly safe, there are some essential safety precautions to keep in mind:
- Allergy Alert: Sumac is in the same plant family (Anacardiaceae) as cashews and mangoes. Individuals with allergies to these foods may experience a reaction to sumac and should exercise caution.
- Positive Identification: Never consume a plant unless you are 100% certain of its identity. The distinction between red-berried edible sumac and white-berried poisonous sumac is the most critical identification step.
- Source of Foraged Berries: Only forage from areas away from roadsides and potential pesticide or herbicide exposure. Ensure the berries are clean and free of insects or mold before use.
For more information on native plants and their properties, consider consulting authoritative sources like the North American Native Plant Society.
Conclusion
Fragrant sumac is a safe and delicious wild edible with a long history of use. By following proper identification steps and taking necessary precautions, foragers can confidently use its tangy red berries to create flavorful drinks and seasonings. Distinguishing its upright, red clusters from the drooping, white berries of poisonous sumac is paramount for a safe foraging experience. When in doubt, a reputable field guide or expert can provide guidance, but with careful observation, the fragrant sumac can be a welcome addition to your kitchen.
