Natural and Synthetic Sources of Azelaic Acid
While the skin benefits of azelaic acid are well-known, many people are surprised to learn about its origins. The compound is naturally synthesized in two primary ways: from common dietary grains and from a fungus that is a normal part of the human skin microbiome.
Where Azelaic Acid Occurs Naturally
- Grains: The most commonly cited natural sources are grains, specifically barley, wheat, and rye. The acid is present in small quantities within these cereals.
- Yeast (Malassezia furfur): A yeast, also known as Pityrosporum ovale, lives on healthy human skin and is responsible for producing azelaic acid as a byproduct of its metabolism. This makes the compound a natural component of our skin’s microflora.
The Role of Synthetic Production for Skincare
For use in cosmetic and pharmaceutical skincare products, the azelaic acid is almost always synthetically produced in a laboratory. There are several key reasons for this:
- Purity and Concentration: Synthetic production allows for a high degree of purity and consistent, predictable concentrations, which are critical for medical-grade treatments.
- Stability: Lab-engineered azelaic acid is more stable, ensuring the product maintains its effectiveness over its shelf life.
- Effectiveness: For conditions like acne and rosacea, the high concentrations required for therapeutic effects are best achieved through synthetic methods.
- Source Material: Industrial production often uses a process called ozonolysis of oleic acid, a fatty acid commonly found in vegetable oils like olive oil, to create the compound.
How Azelaic Acid is Found in Skincare Products
Azelaic acid is formulated into a variety of topical products to address different skin concerns. Its gentle nature makes it compatible with a wide range of other skincare ingredients.
Common Product Types
- Creams: Often used for acne treatment, providing a rich, hydrating base for the active ingredient. Prescription-strength creams are available.
- Gels: These lighter formulations are frequently prescribed for rosacea, as they absorb quickly and are less greasy, making them suitable for oilier skin types.
- Serums: Found in over-the-counter and prescription formats, serums offer concentrated amounts of azelaic acid to target specific issues like hyperpigmentation and uneven texture.
- Foams: Prescription foams are sometimes used to treat rosacea and are noted for their flammability, requiring users to avoid open flames after application.
Benefits of Azelaic Acid for Skin Health
Azelaic acid is a versatile ingredient with multiple functions, making it a dermatologist favorite for treating a range of conditions. Its key benefits include:
- Antimicrobial Action: It inhibits the growth of acne-causing bacteria (Cutibacterium acnes), helping to reduce breakouts.
- Anti-inflammatory Properties: By scavenging free radicals, azelaic acid helps calm redness, irritation, and swelling associated with acne and rosacea.
- Exfoliating Effects: It has a mild keratolytic effect, meaning it helps normalize skin cell turnover and unclog pores, leading to smoother skin texture.
- Hyperpigmentation Reduction: Azelaic acid inhibits tyrosinase, a key enzyme involved in melanin production, which helps fade dark spots, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and melasma.
Azelaic Acid vs. Benzoyl Peroxide Comparison
| While both are common acne treatments, their mechanisms and side effect profiles differ, making them suitable for different skin types and concerns. | Feature | Azelaic Acid | Benzoyl Peroxide |
|---|---|---|---|
| Primary Action | Antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, mild exfoliant, inhibits melanin production. | Antimicrobial, works by releasing free radicals to kill bacteria. | |
| Mode of Action | Multifaceted, targets bacteria, inflammation, and hyperpigmentation. | Primarily bactericidal, with secondary exfoliating effects. | |
| Effectiveness | Highly effective for acne and rosacea; also brightens skin tone. | Effective for treating acne, particularly inflammatory lesions. | |
| Onset of Results | Slower acting, may take time for significant improvement. | Faster acting, often shows improvement within a month. | |
| Side Effects | Generally milder; can cause temporary itching, burning, or dryness. | More aggressive; can cause significant dryness, irritation, and peeling. | |
| Gentleness | Considered gentle and suitable for sensitive and rosacea-prone skin. | Can be harsh and irritating, especially for sensitive skin. | |
| Other Effects | Does not stain or bleach fabrics. | Can bleach clothing, towels, and pillowcases. |
Conclusion
In conclusion, azelaic acid is a fascinating ingredient with natural roots in grains and skin flora, though the versions used in effective skincare products are synthetically derived for maximum stability and potency. Its ability to combat acne, calm rosacea, and fade hyperpigmentation with a relatively low risk of irritation makes it an indispensable component in modern dermatology. By understanding where azelaic acid is found and how it works, consumers can confidently integrate it into their routine, often seeing significant improvements over several months of consistent use. Its gentle yet powerful action makes it an excellent choice for a wide variety of skin types, particularly those prone to sensitivity. For further detailed information on its dermatological uses and mechanisms, you can refer to authoritative sources like the National Institutes of Health. [^1]
[^1]: The multiple uses of azelaic acid in dermatology: mechanism of action and novel formulations, PMC, National Institutes of Health, https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10809820/
Frequently Asked Questions
- What is azelaic acid? Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid that is naturally found in grains like wheat and barley, and is also produced by the yeast Malassezia furfur that resides on human skin.
- Why is the azelaic acid in skincare products synthetic? For use in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, azelaic acid is synthesized in a lab to ensure high purity, stability, and consistent efficacy, which is vital for safe and effective treatment.
- Can I use azelaic acid if I have sensitive skin? Yes, azelaic acid is known for being gentler than many other active ingredients and is often recommended for sensitive skin types and rosacea patients.
- Does azelaic acid help with hyperpigmentation? Yes, it is very effective at fading dark spots, post-acne marks, and melasma by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in melanin production.
- How long does it take to see results from azelaic acid? Initial soothing effects can be seen fairly quickly, but significant improvements in texture, acne, and pigmentation typically appear after time of consistent use.
- Can I use azelaic acid with other skincare ingredients? Yes, azelaic acid is highly compatible with many other actives like niacinamide, vitamin C, and retinol, and can be layered or used in conjunction with them for enhanced results.
- Is azelaic acid safe to use during pregnancy? Yes, the American College of Obstetricians and Gynecologists considers azelaic acid one of the topical active ingredients safe for treating breakouts during pregnancy.
- How should I choose an azelaic acid product? Products vary in concentration and formulation (cream, gel, serum). Consulting with a dermatologist can help determine the most appropriate product and strength for your specific skin concerns.
