Khesari Dal's Global Identity: English and European Names
Beyond the Indian subcontinent, Khesari dal is recognized by a wide array of English and European names that reflect its botanical nature and history. Its scientific classification is Lathyrus sativus, which places it in the pea family (Fabaceae) alongside other vetch species. The most common English names include:
- Grass pea: A straightforward name referencing its appearance as a pea from a trailing plant.
- Chickling vetch or Chickling pea: Describing its growth habit as a vetch-like climber with pea-like seeds.
- Indian pea: Indicating its strong historical and culinary association with the Indian subcontinent.
- Blue sweet pea or Blue vetchling: Names inspired by the vivid blue or purple flowers of the plant.
In Europe, it is also known by regional names. For instance, in Spain, it is called almorta, while in Italy, it is known as cicerchia. These names highlight the legume's deep roots in the culinary traditions of various cultures.
Regional Names in the Indian Subcontinent
Within India and neighboring countries, Khesari dal is referred to by a number of local names, depending on the region and dialect. This linguistic diversity underscores its widespread consumption and integration into local food systems. Some of these names include:
- Kesari Dal: A common spelling variation of Khesari.
- Lakhori Dal or Lakh Dal: Other prominent regional names used in Indian cuisine.
- Latari: The Hindi name for the legume.
- Khesari (खेसरी) and Latari (लटरी): Hindi and Nepali names.
- Khesari Dal (খেসারি ডাল): The Bengali name for the pulse.
- Mattari or Kesari: Common names used in Pakistan.
The Controversial History of Khesari Dal
For decades, Khesari dal was stigmatized and even banned in certain regions due to a significant health concern: lathyrism. The seeds contain a neurotoxin called $\beta$-oxalyl-$\alpha$,$\beta$-diaminopropionic acid, or $\beta$-ODAP. Prolonged, exclusive consumption of Khesari dal as a primary protein source, particularly during famines and periods of food scarcity, was linked to this neurodegenerative disease that causes paralysis of the lower limbs.
The ban in India was eventually lifted for certain varieties and under controlled conditions. This decision was based on research and the development of low-toxin varieties. The ban had unintended consequences, as it deprived impoverished populations of a reliable, drought-resistant food source. Modern research, coupled with proper preparation methods, has led to a reconsideration of this resilient crop.
Khesari Dal vs. Common Indian Dals
To better understand Khesari dal, it can be helpful to compare its nutritional and physical characteristics with other popular Indian lentils. While often sold or used as a substitute, it possesses unique qualities.
| Feature | Khesari Dal / Grass Pea | Toor Dal / Pigeon Pea | Chana Dal / Split Chickpea | 
|---|---|---|---|
| Appearance | Angular, wedge-shaped, typically yellow or spotted | Round, yellow, and split | Larger, pale yellow, split | 
| Protein | High (~25-30%) | High (~22-25%) | High (~22-25%) | 
| Fiber | High | High | High | 
| Fat | Low (~1%) | Low (~1-2%) | Low (~1-2%) | 
| Toxicity Concern | Yes, if consumed excessively and improperly prepared | None | None | 
| Taste Profile | Nutty, sometimes slightly bitter/sour | Mild, nutty | Slightly sweet, nutty | 
| Drought Resistance | Very high | Moderate | Moderate to low | 
Safe Preparation and Modern Uses
With the modern understanding of its properties, Khesari dal can be safely incorporated into a varied diet through proper preparation. Methods to reduce the neurotoxin content include:
- Soaking: Soaking the dal for several hours or overnight and discarding the water is a crucial first step.
- Repeated Cooking: Thorough boiling and cooking further reduces the toxin levels. Some traditions involve boiling and discarding the water several times.
- Variety is Key: Experts emphasize that lathyrism is caused by excessive consumption as a primary protein source. Eating Khesari dal as part of a varied diet with other pulses and grains mitigates the risk.
Beyond just dal preparations, Khesari is versatile. The leaves and immature pods can be cooked as a vegetable, while the dried, split seeds are used in curries and fritters.
For more detailed scientific information on Lathyrus sativus and lathyrism, refer to the Wikipedia page.
Conclusion
Khesari dal, known by a host of names such as grass pea, chickling vetch, and Kesari dal, is a legume with a rich history and a complex reputation. Its past association with lathyrism due to a naturally occurring neurotoxin led to bans in several countries. However, modern agricultural advancements and proper culinary practices, like soaking and thorough cooking, have made it possible to enjoy this highly nutritious, drought-tolerant pulse safely. As a cheap and reliable source of protein, especially in arid climates, Khesari dal's story highlights the intricate relationship between food security, social context, and public health.