The Origin of the MSG Controversy: From Umami to Xenophobia
The story of the MSG controversy begins not with scientific evidence, but with a letter published in 1968. A physician's report on experiencing various symptoms after eating at Chinese restaurants—including numbness and palpitations—sparked a media frenzy and widespread fear. The resulting term, "Chinese Restaurant Syndrome," stigmatized MSG, and by extension, Chinese cuisine.
This fear was fueled by racial and cultural biases prevalent at the time, painting Asian food as exotic and dangerous. The irony is that monosodium glutamate, or MSG, was discovered by Japanese chemist Kikunae Ikeda in 1908 while isolating the savory taste, or umami, from seaweed broth. The MSG he patented was an effort to capture and share this unique flavor profile. Today, the same compound is made through a fermentation process involving sugar beets or sugarcane, much like how yogurt is made.
The Flawed Science That Fueled the Fear
Early studies that seemed to "prove" the harmful effects of MSG were plagued by poor methodology. In a notable 1969 study, massive doses of MSG were injected into infant mice, leading to brain lesions. However, these injections and doses were so disproportionately large compared to typical human consumption that the results are considered irrelevant to human dietary intake. Many studies in the decades since have failed to find a consistent link between MSG ingestion and the reported symptoms. Double-blind, placebo-controlled studies, where participants do not know if they are receiving MSG or a harmless placebo, have failed to reliably trigger reactions in self-identified sensitive individuals.
Scientific Consensus on MSG's Safety
Multiple major health organizations worldwide have concluded that MSG is safe for consumption. These include:
- The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA): Considers MSG "generally recognized as safe" (GRAS) and has found no conclusive evidence linking it to adverse reactions in the general population.
- The Joint FAO/WHO Expert Committee on Food Additives (JECFA): This committee of the United Nations has also affirmed MSG's safety, establishing an acceptable daily intake (ADI) that far exceeds typical dietary consumption.
- Food Standards Australia New Zealand (FSANZ): Concluded in 2003 that there is "no convincing evidence that MSG is a significant factor in causing systemic reactions".
Where is MSG found?
MSG is not only added to foods but also occurs naturally in many ingredients. The glutamate in MSG is chemically identical to the glutamate found naturally in other foods, and your body metabolizes both in the same way.
Here are some examples of foods naturally rich in glutamate:
- Parmesan cheese
- Tomatoes
- Mushrooms
- Soy sauce
- Hydrolyzed vegetable protein
The double standard of fearing MSG in Chinese food while consuming it without concern in items like Doritos, Campbell's soup, and parmesan cheese highlights the cultural prejudice at the heart of the controversy.
The "Sensitive Individual" Exception
While MSG is safe for the vast majority of people, a small subset of the population (less than 1%) may experience mild, transient symptoms like headaches or flushing. However, these reactions often occur only when large quantities of MSG (3 grams or more) are consumed on an empty stomach, which is far more than what is typically used in cooking. A typical serving of food with added MSG contains less than 0.5 grams. This is also not a true allergic reaction, as MSG is a glutamate and not a protein.
The Role of the Nocebo Effect
For many who report sensitivities, a phenomenon known as the nocebo effect may be at play. This is the reverse of the placebo effect, where a person expects a negative outcome and consequently experiences real physical symptoms. For decades, negative messaging around MSG has conditioned many to expect an adverse reaction, which can then be self-fulfilling. When consumers see "No MSG" signs on restaurants, it can reinforce the erroneous belief that the ingredient is inherently dangerous.
The Modern-Day Reckoning
In recent years, chefs, food writers, and scientists have worked to reclaim MSG's reputation and correct the long-standing misconceptions. Campaigns like #RedefineCRS have targeted the xenophobic roots of the term "Chinese Restaurant Syndrome" and promoted a more accurate understanding of food science. The modern MSG renaissance celebrates it for what it is: a powerful, safe, and useful tool for enhancing flavor.
Conclusion: The Final Verdict on MSG
The controversy with MSG is less about science and more a product of misinformation and cultural bias. Decades of research by leading health authorities have consistently affirmed its safety for the general population when consumed in normal amounts. The symptoms historically attributed to it, now called MSG Symptom Complex, are rare, mild, and often associated with unrealistic consumption levels. Consumers can confidently use MSG as a flavor enhancer or simply enjoy the umami in naturally glutamate-rich foods, knowing that the fear surrounding it is unfounded in sound scientific evidence.
MSG vs. Table Salt: A Comparison
| Feature | Monosodium Glutamate (MSG) | Table Salt (Sodium Chloride) |
|---|---|---|
| Primary Function | Enhances and intensifies umami (savory) flavor | Provides salty taste |
| Sodium Content | Approximately 12.28% sodium by weight | Approximately 39.34% sodium by weight |
| Usage | Used in smaller amounts to boost flavor, can help reduce overall sodium content | Used to add saltiness |
| Flavor Profile | On its own, it has no flavor but makes other savory tastes more prominent | Distinctly salty |
| Body's Metabolism | Glutamate is metabolized by the body in the same way as naturally occurring glutamate from food | Sodium is essential but excessive intake is linked to health issues like high blood pressure |
