Unpacking the Misconception: MS is MSG
The phrase "MS in Chinese food" is a common but incorrect shorthand rooted in a mid-20th-century myth. The actual ingredient in question is MSG, or monosodium glutamate. MSG is the purest form of umami, the fifth basic taste after sweet, sour, salty, and bitter. Despite its long history and global usage, a wave of fear and misinformation in the 1960s cemented a false and often racially-biased association between MSG and negative health effects.
The Discovery and Use of MSG
MSG’s story begins in 1908, when Japanese chemist Kikunae Ikeda isolated glutamate from kombu seaweed broth. He recognized the unique, savory taste and dubbed it "umami," which translates to "delicious taste". To make this savory essence accessible, he stabilized it by combining it with sodium, creating monosodium glutamate. The company he co-founded, Ajinomoto, began commercial production in 1909. The ingredient quickly became a staple in Japanese, Chinese, and Korean kitchens to enhance the flavors of soups, stir-fries, and sauces.
In Chinese cuisine, MSG became popular among immigrant cooks in America, who adapted their recipes for a Western palate accustomed to bold, often heavily seasoned flavors. The addition of MSG helped intensify and balance the flavor profiles of their dishes, a practice common in many food industries worldwide.
The “Chinese Restaurant Syndrome” and Its Discrediting
The negative reputation of MSG began with a highly influential 1968 letter to the New England Journal of Medicine. Attributed to a doctor named Robert Ho Man Kwok, the letter described symptoms like numbness, palpitations, and weakness after eating Chinese food and speculated MSG could be the cause. The media sensationalized this unproven hypothesis, coining the term "Chinese Restaurant Syndrome" (CRS) and fueling a widespread fear of MSG, specifically in the context of Chinese cuisine.
However, decades of scientific research have since debunked this myth. Numerous controlled, double-blind studies have failed to establish a consistent link between MSG consumption and the reported symptoms. The medical community now acknowledges that the original anti-MSG narrative was likely influenced by xenophobic attitudes towards Chinese immigrants and their food. What was once called CRS is now more accurately referred to as MSG symptom complex, affecting less than 1% of the general population with usually mild and short-lived symptoms.
The Science of Glutamate: Natural vs. Added
Understanding the science reveals why the fear of MSG is largely unfounded. Our bodies cannot distinguish between glutamate that is naturally present in food and that which is added as MSG. Glutamate is one of the most abundant amino acids in nature and is found in many everyday foods.
Common Sources of Natural Glutamate:
- Meat and Poultry: Beef, chicken, and other animal proteins contain high levels of bound and free glutamate.
- Seafood: Fish, shellfish, and anchovies are rich sources of umami flavor.
- Fermented and Aged Products: Parmesan cheese, soy sauce, miso, and yeast extract are naturally high in glutamate.
- Vegetables: Tomatoes, mushrooms, peas, and corn contain significant amounts of natural glutamate.
- Breast Milk: Human breast milk naturally contains high levels of glutamate, providing one of a baby's earliest experiences with umami.
When you consume MSG, it breaks down into sodium and free glutamate. Your body processes and metabolizes this glutamate identically to the glutamate found naturally in a ripe tomato or a piece of cheese.
Comparison: MSG vs. Table Salt
Interestingly, MSG can be a tool for reducing sodium intake. Although it contains sodium, MSG has only about one-third the amount of sodium as table salt. When used to enhance umami, it can allow cooks to reduce the overall salt content of a dish without sacrificing flavor.
| Feature | Monosodium Glutamate (MSG) | Table Salt (NaCl) |
|---|---|---|
| Primary Role | Flavor enhancer (umami) | Flavor enhancer (salty) |
| Sodium Content | ~12% sodium | ~40% sodium |
| Flavor Profile | Amplifies savory, brothy, and meaty tastes | Provides a purely salty taste |
| Usage in Cooking | Used in small amounts to enhance existing flavors | Used to provide saltiness; often used more heavily |
| Metabolism | Metabolized identically to naturally occurring glutamate | Broken down into sodium and chloride ions |
Practical Use and Modern Perspective
Today, many top chefs and food influencers are openly advocating for the use of MSG, celebrating it as a culinary asset rather than a harmful chemical. They point to its ability to add depth and complexity to dishes, making it an indispensable ingredient in modern gastronomy.
For home cooks, MSG can be a powerful tool for elevating everyday meals. A small pinch can transform a simple soup, marinade, or stir-fry. By understanding its true nature as a flavor amplifier, cooks can move past the decades-old myths and embrace a versatile and effective seasoning. For those concerned about highly processed foods, which often contain MSG, it's the nutritional profile of the entire product—not just the MSG—that warrants attention.
Conclusion: A Misunderstood Flavor Enhancer
In conclusion, the 'MS in Chinese food' mystery is simply the widespread misunderstanding of MSG, or monosodium glutamate. Fueled by early scientific misinterpretations and racial bias, the ingredient was unjustly demonized. In reality, MSG is a safe and effective flavor enhancer that harnesses the natural umami taste found in many foods. Decades of research have confirmed its safety for the vast majority of the population, and it can even aid in sodium reduction in cooking. By separating fact from fiction, we can appreciate MSG for what it truly is: a remarkable tool for adding delicious, savory depth to a wide array of dishes around the world.
