Squalene vs. Squalane: Clarifying the Key Difference
Before diving into the sources, it's crucial to understand the distinction between squalene and squalane. Squalene (with an 'e') is the natural, unsaturated hydrocarbon found in plants, animals, and humans. In its natural state, squalene is highly unstable and prone to oxidation when exposed to air, causing it to spoil quickly.
Squalane (with an 'a') is the hydrogenated, saturated, and much more stable form of squalene, specifically engineered for use in cosmetic and skincare products. This process involves adding hydrogen atoms to the molecule, which increases its shelf life and prevents it from becoming rancid. When you see 'squalane' listed as an ingredient, you can be confident it's the stable derivative chosen for long-lasting efficacy.
Historical and Controversial Source: Shark Liver Oil
For decades, deep-sea shark liver oil was considered the richest and most potent source of squalene. Deep-sea sharks, which lack a swim bladder, rely on their large, oil-filled livers for buoyancy. The oil, which can make up a significant portion of their body weight, has a high concentration of squalene.
However, the practice of harvesting squalene from sharks is widely criticized by environmental and conservation groups due to its devastating impact on vulnerable marine ecosystems and deep-sea shark populations. The unsustainable fishing methods often involve the practice of 'shark livering,' where the shark is killed solely for its liver, and the rest of the body is discarded. Thanks to increasing public awareness and advocacy campaigns, many cosmetic companies have pledged to stop using shark-derived squalene in their products.
Plant-Based Sources (Phytosqualene)
Driven by the demand for ethical and sustainable alternatives, the industry has embraced plant-based sources, also known as phytosqualene. While concentrations vary, these botanical sources provide a viable and eco-friendly option.
Key Plant Sources of Squalene
- Olive Oil: Extra virgin olive oil is one of the most commercially significant plant sources of squalene, with its concentration depending on the olive cultivar and geographic region. Even higher concentrations can be found in the deodorizer distillate, a byproduct of olive oil refining, making it an economically efficient source.
- Amaranth Oil: A pseudocereal prized for its nutritional value, amaranth seed oil is another remarkably rich source of squalene, often containing concentrations significantly higher than olive oil.
- Sugarcane: Advancements in biotechnology have enabled the fermentation of sugarcane to produce a highly pure and sustainable squalane. This process offers consistent quality and yield, addressing some of the variability seen with other plant-based sources.
- Other Vegetable Oils: Squalene is present in lower concentrations in various other plant-derived oils, including wheat germ, rice bran, palm, and soybean oils.
Modern and Innovative Sources: Biotechnology
For maximum sustainability and consistency, the cosmetics and nutraceutical industries are increasingly turning to biotechnology. Fermentation-based methods use microorganisms like yeast, fed with plant-based sugars, to produce high-purity squalene. This process eliminates the ethical concerns associated with animal harvesting and the environmental fluctuations that can affect plant yields.
- Yeasts: Certain yeast species, such as Saccharomyces cerevisiae (baker's yeast) and genetically engineered strains, can be cultivated in controlled environments to produce squalene with high efficiency. This method allows for a reliable and scalable supply.
- Algae: Marine protists and certain types of algae have also shown potential as high-yield producers of squalene, offering another avenue for sustainable production.
Comparison of Squalene Sources
| Source Type | Examples | Key Characteristics | Environmental/Ethical Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| Animal | Deep-sea shark liver oil | Historically the richest natural source | Unsustainable, highly unethical, detrimental to marine life |
| Plant-Based | Olive oil, amaranth oil, rice bran oil, wheat germ oil | Sustainable, ethical, high-quality, but concentration can vary due to environmental factors | Generally very high, supports plant agriculture |
| Biotech/Fermentation | Sugarcane-derived via yeast fermentation | Highly sustainable, ethical, consistent high purity, not reliant on agricultural yields | Excellent, provides a stable, ethical, and reliable supply |
Conclusion: The Shift to Ethical Sourcing
While squalene is naturally ubiquitous, found in our own skin and in a wide range of plants and animals, the cosmetic and health industries have shifted focus toward ethical and sustainable sourcing. The exploitation of marine life for shark liver oil is now largely condemned and replaced by reliable, high-quality alternatives derived from plants like olives, amaranth, and sugarcane, or through innovative biotech fermentation.
For consumers, this means more choice and the ability to select products that align with their ethical values. When looking for squalene in a product, remember that 'squalane' is the stable form used in formulations. Seeking out products that explicitly state their use of plant-based or biotech-derived squalane ensures you are supporting environmentally responsible practices without compromising on the ingredient's hydrating and protective benefits.
The Role of Squalene in the Human Body
Aside from external sources, the human body produces its own squalene. It is an important intermediate in the biosynthesis of cholesterol and other sterols. It plays a vital role as a component of sebum, helping to protect and lubricate the skin. The level of natural squalene in our skin, however, decreases significantly after the age of 30, which can contribute to signs of skin aging and dryness. This is why topical application of squalane has become a popular skincare strategy to help replenish the skin's moisture barrier and maintain a healthy, supple complexion.
American Chemical Society: Squalene
Key Benefits of Squalane in Skincare
- Emollient and Hydrator: Squalane's lightweight texture makes it an effective emollient that mimics the skin's natural oils, helping to soften and smooth the skin without feeling greasy.
- Moisture Barrier Support: It helps reduce transepidermal water loss by forming a protective barrier on the skin's surface, locking in moisture.
- Non-Comedogenic: As a non-pore-clogging ingredient, it is safe for all skin types, including those with oily and acne-prone skin.
- Soothes and Calms: Its anti-inflammatory properties can help calm temporary redness and soothe irritation.
- Antioxidant Properties (Squalene): While the squalane in products is stable, the naturally occurring squalene in our sebum acts as an antioxidant, helping to fight oxidative stress from environmental factors.
