The 60-Day Rule: A Key Distinction
In the United States, federal law governs the sale of cheese made from unpasteurized, or raw, milk. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) requires that any cheese made from unpasteurized milk, whether domestic or imported, must be aged a minimum of 60 days before it can be legally sold to consumers. This rule was established to protect public health by ensuring that the natural acids and salts developed during the aging process are sufficient to kill or significantly reduce the presence of harmful bacteria, such as Listeria, Salmonella, and E. coli, to an acceptable level. For cheese lovers, this regulation is a critical factor determining what types of unpasteurized cheese are available. For example, traditional European soft cheeses, like authentic French Camembert or Brie de Meaux, which are often ripened for a shorter period, are prohibited from import in their true raw-milk form. As a result, the versions available in the U.S. are typically made with pasteurized milk to meet safety requirements.
Flavor and Production Differences
One of the most compelling reasons for cheese enthusiasts to seek out unpasteurized cheese is its superior and more complex flavor profile. The difference stems from the pasteurization process itself. Pasteurization involves heating milk to a specific temperature for a set time to kill harmful microorganisms. While this ensures safety, it also eliminates many of the natural microflora and enzymes that exist in raw milk. These living components are what contribute unique, complex, and nuanced flavors to the finished product, creating a taste that is an expression of its origin, or terroir. By contrast, cheese made from pasteurized milk often has a more consistent and milder flavor. This is because cheesemakers must add specific starter cultures back into the milk to begin the cheesemaking process, which can lead to a more standardized, and sometimes less unique, taste. For many artisan cheesemakers, using raw milk is a fundamental part of their craft, allowing them to produce cheeses with greater character and depth that reflect the local environment and animal diet.
Comparing Unpasteurized and Pasteurized Cheeses
| Feature | Unpasteurized (Raw Milk) Cheese | Pasteurized Cheese |
|---|---|---|
| Flavor Profile | More complex, nuanced, and diverse due to natural microflora. | More consistent and typically milder, reliant on added cultures for flavor. |
| Microflora | Contains naturally occurring, beneficial microbes unique to the milk's origin. | Most microbes are eliminated by heat; flavor-producing cultures are added back. |
| Aging Requirements | In the U.S., must be aged at least 60 days to mitigate risk. | No specific aging required by law for safety purposes. |
| Availability | Primarily hard and semi-hard aged varieties are available in the U.S. Soft, fresh raw milk cheeses are mostly found elsewhere. | Widely available in all varieties, from fresh to aged. |
| Risk Factor | Requires careful handling and aging; poses a higher risk for vulnerable populations. | Generally considered lower risk due to the pathogen-killing heat treatment. |
| Production | Often artisanal, small-scale, with a focus on tradition. | Dominated by large-scale commercial production, prioritizing consistency and safety. |
Which Aged Cheeses Are Unpasteurized?
While soft, unaged raw milk cheeses are not legal in the U.S., many hard and semi-hard aged varieties are available. The strict aging requirement makes these cheeses safe for general consumption. Some well-known examples include:
- Parmigiano-Reggiano: This iconic Italian hard cheese is traditionally made with raw milk and aged for many months or years.
- Gruyère: The Swiss and French versions of this firm, nutty cheese are commonly made with unpasteurized milk and aged over 12 months.
- Comté: Another French classic, this semi-hard cheese from the Jura Mountains is always produced with raw milk.
- Aged Cheddar: Certain artisan farmhouse cheddars, such as Montgomery's or Keen's from the UK, use raw milk and undergo extensive aging.
- Roquefort: This famous blue cheese from France is made from unpasteurized sheep's milk.
- Manchego: While both pasteurized and unpasteurized versions exist, the artisan varieties from Spain are made with raw sheep's milk. When shopping, always check the label, as many of these cheeses are also available in pasteurized versions to cater to different markets. In Europe and other regions, regulations may be different, allowing for a wider selection of soft, unpasteurized cheeses that are not found in the U.S..
Where to Find Unpasteurized Cheese
For consumers in the U.S. seeking legally compliant, unpasteurized cheese, several avenues are available:
- Specialty Cheese Shops: Knowledgeable cheesemongers are the best resource. They can provide detailed information on their raw milk selection, including origin, aging, and flavor profiles.
- Online Retailers: Reputable online cheese stores specializing in artisan products often offer a dedicated selection of raw milk cheeses, complete with descriptions and legal compliance information.
- Farmers' Markets: In some states, local producers may sell aged raw milk cheese directly. Regulations for on-farm sales can vary by state, so it is important to confirm legality locally.
- Supermarkets: Major grocery stores may carry some aged, hard raw milk cheeses, especially imported varieties. Always check the product label for confirmation.
Safety and Consumption: Who Needs to be Cautious?
While aged unpasteurized cheeses are considered safe for most adults, health organizations like the CDC and FDA advise certain high-risk groups to avoid them entirely. This is because even with aging, there is a low but persistent risk of bacterial contamination that could cause serious illness in vulnerable individuals. The risk is particularly pronounced in softer varieties, although these are already restricted in the U.S..
High-risk groups include:
- Pregnant individuals
- Young children
- The elderly
- People with compromised immune systems
These populations are more susceptible to the severe consequences of foodborne illnesses from bacteria like Listeria. For these individuals, choosing pasteurized dairy products is the safest option. If you are unsure, cooking the cheese (such as in a fondue or sauce) can eliminate the health risk.
Conclusion: Navigating Your Choices
Yes, you can get unpasteurized cheese, and for many, it is a key part of the cheese experience. The rich, complex flavors that can be achieved only through raw milk cheesemaking are a testament to traditional artistry and regional terroir. However, enjoying these cheeses comes with the responsibility of being aware of the rules and risks involved. In the U.S., the 60-day aging requirement ensures a safe product for most consumers, primarily limiting the market to harder, aged varieties. For those in high-risk categories, the safest choice is to stick with cheeses made from pasteurized milk. By understanding the aging, flavor, and safety aspects, you can navigate the world of cheese with confidence and savor the distinctive character of raw milk creations.
Further Reading: To learn more about the regulatory oversight of raw milk cheeses, see the FDA's information on its microbiological surveillance sampling.
