The Identity of Frisée: A Member of the Chicory Family
Frisée is a specific variety of endive, which is a type of chicory green. While often referred to as frisée in French cuisine, it is also widely known by its more descriptive name, curly endive. Unlike true lettuces, chicories possess a characteristic mild-to-pronounced bitterness, a trait that frisée showcases beautifully. This bitterness, far from being a flaw, is highly prized by chefs for adding a welcome complexity that complements and cuts through rich and sweet flavors. Heads of frisée are typically loose and bushy, with delicate, feathery leaves that range in color from a deep, vibrant green at the tips to a pale yellow or white at the heart.
The Flavor and Texture Profile
The taste of frisée is nuanced, offering a slightly bitter and peppery flavor that varies depending on the part of the plant. The darker green outer leaves tend to be more robustly bitter, while the tender, pale inner leaves are noticeably milder. This gradient of flavor and color is often a result of a cultivation technique called blanching, where the center of the plant is shielded from sunlight as it grows. The texture is another key characteristic; the delicate frilly leaves provide a crisp, crunchy, and airy contrast that adds fantastic volume and bite to salads.
Culinary Uses for a Balanced Plate
Frisée is a remarkably versatile green, and its bitterness can be both the star of the show and a perfect supporting character. It is most famously used in the classic French dish, salade Lyonnaise, where it is tossed in a warm vinaigrette with ingredients that perfectly balance its bitter flavor.
Classic Pairings to Tame the Bitterness:
- Fatty and Savory Ingredients: The richness of thick-cut bacon (lardons in French), pancetta, or even crispy duck confit provides a delicious counterpoint to frisée's sharp flavor.
- Rich and Creamy Dressings: Warm bacon vinaigrettes, creamy blue cheese dressings, or a simple olive oil and lemon combination can coat the leaves and mellow the bitterness.
- Sweet and Tangy Elements: The bright acidity of citrus fruits, especially blood oranges, or the natural sweetness of ingredients like apple, pear, and dried fruit, creates a harmonious contrast.
- Rich Cheeses and Eggs: The creaminess of a soft-boiled or poached egg, along with salty and assertive cheeses like goat cheese or crumbled feta, offers a textural and flavor contrast that enhances the entire dish.
- Nutty Accents: Walnuts, hazelnuts, and candied nuts add both crunch and earthy flavor notes that pair wonderfully with frisée.
A Comparison of Popular Chicory Greens
To better understand frisée, it helps to compare it with its close relatives in the chicory family.
| Characteristic | Frisée (Curly Endive) | Escarole (Broad-Leaf Endive) | Radicchio (Italian Chicory) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Appearance | Delicate, lacy, and curly leaves; green tips fading to a pale yellow/white heart | Broad, wavy, and flat leaves; resembles lettuce; green outer leaves with a pale heart | Compact, round head; vibrant reddish-purple leaves with prominent white veins |
| Flavor Profile | Subtly bitter, peppery flavor; outer leaves are more bitter than the mild inner ones | Milder bitterness compared to frisée; earthy undertones | Notably more bitter and spicy than frisée, with sweet notes when cooked |
| Texture | Frilly, airy, and crisp; adds a unique volume to salads | Firmer and sturdier leaves than frisée; more substantial for cooking | Crisp and firm, holds up well to grilling and roasting |
| Best Used | Primarily for raw salads (classic salade Lyonnaise); can be lightly wilted | Versatile for both raw and cooked dishes (soups, braises, sautés) | Adds color and a bitter kick to salads; excellent for grilling and roasting |
Selecting and Storing Frisée
To ensure the best flavor and texture, select heads of frisée with crisp, vibrant green outer leaves and a pale yellow, unstained core. Avoid bunches with browning or wilting leaves. Because of its delicate nature, frisée should be stored properly to maintain its freshness. The best method is to rinse and dry the leaves gently, then wrap them in paper towels and place them in an open plastic bag in the refrigerator's crisper drawer. It is best to use frisée within a few days of purchase to enjoy its optimal crispness.
Cooking with Frisée to Mellow the Flavor
While raw frisée provides the most textural contrast, cooking it is a popular method to temper its bitterness. Heat mellows the intensity of the bitter compounds in chicories, resulting in a sweeter, earthier, and nuttier flavor. It can be lightly sautéed with garlic and olive oil, added to soups and stews in the last few minutes of cooking, or lightly wilted with a warm dressing. This culinary versatility allows frisée to transition from a refreshing salad green to a hearty, flavorful component of a cooked meal.
Conclusion
Frisée, also known as curly endive, is a distinct chicory green treasured for its feathery texture and balanced, slightly bitter flavor. By understanding its characteristics and proper culinary pairings, home cooks can confidently incorporate this versatile vegetable into their repertoire. Whether featured raw in a classic salade Lyonnaise or lightly cooked to soften its bitterness, frisée offers a delicious and sophisticated flavor profile that elevates any dish. The ability to tame its bitterness with contrasting flavors, such as sweet fruit, salty cheese, or rich bacon, makes it an exciting and rewarding ingredient to explore in the kitchen. For a perfect pairing, try it with a warm bacon vinaigrette, creamy goat cheese, and toasted walnuts for an unforgettable salad. A great recipe for the classic frisée aux lardons can be found on Serious Eats.
