Why You Can't Eat Raw Capers Directly
Raw, freshly harvested caper buds possess an intensely bitter and astringent flavor profile that makes them inedible without a proper curing process. This harshness comes from chemical compounds, including mustard oils, which need to be mellowed out and transformed through salting or pickling. Curing not only removes this unpleasant bitterness but also develops the capers' characteristic savory, tangy, and floral notes, creating the complex flavor prized in Mediterranean dishes.
Two Primary Methods to Prepare Raw Capers
The two most common and effective methods for preparing raw capers are dry salt-curing and brine-pickling. Each method results in a distinct final product with slight variations in flavor and texture, but both are excellent ways to preserve the fresh capers.
Method 1: Dry Salt-Curing Fresh Capers
This traditional Italian method uses coarse sea salt to draw out moisture and bitterness over time, resulting in a more concentrated, intense caper flavor and a tender, meaty texture.
Ingredients and Equipment:
- Fresh, unopened caper buds
- Coarse, non-iodized sea salt (use 75-100g salt per 100g capers)
- Clean, dry glass jar(s) with a tight-fitting lid
- Colander
- Paper towels
Instructions:
- Clean and dry: Rinse the fresh capers thoroughly under cold water to remove any dust or debris. Spread them out on paper towels or a clean dish towel and let them air-dry completely for a day.
- Layer with salt: Place a thin layer of coarse sea salt at the bottom of a clean, dry jar. Add a layer of capers, followed by another layer of salt. Repeat this process, alternating capers and salt, until the jar is full, ensuring the final layer is salt. Shake the jar to distribute the salt evenly.
- Initial curing (7-10 days): Secure the lid loosely or cover it with a breathable cloth secured by an elastic band. Place the jar in a cool, dark place with some airflow. Over the next week, the salt will draw out liquid from the capers. Each day, drain this liquid and add a spoonful of fresh salt. The capers will visibly shrink.
- Final curing (3-4 weeks): Once the capers stop releasing liquid, after about 7-10 days, transfer them to a fresh, clean jar. Pack them tightly and cover with a final, firm layer of fresh salt. Seal the jar tightly and store it in a cool, dark place for at least a month for the flavor to fully mature.
- Before use: When ready to use, rinse the salt-cured capers under cold water. For extra-salty capers, soak them in fresh water for 15-30 minutes to reduce the saltiness.
Method 2: Brine-Pickling Fresh Capers
This method involves an initial soak followed by pickling in a hot brine, which results in a crisper texture and a distinctly tangy, vinegary flavor.
Ingredients and Equipment:
- Fresh, unopened caper buds
- White wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar
- Water
- Non-iodized salt
- Sugar (optional)
- Sterile glass jars with lids
- Saucepan
Instructions:
- Soak to remove bitterness: Place the rinsed, fresh caper buds in a glass jar and cover completely with cold water. Secure the lid and let them sit at room temperature. For three days, drain and replace the water daily. This initial soaking is crucial for removing the intense bitterness.
- Prepare the brine: In a saucepan, combine equal parts water and vinegar with 1 tablespoon of salt per cup of liquid. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring until the salt dissolves. Add a small amount of sugar if you prefer a slightly sweeter brine. Let the brine cool completely.
- Jar the capers: Pack the soaked and drained capers into your sterile glass jars. Pour the cooled brine over the capers, ensuring they are fully submerged.
- Seal and store: Seal the jars tightly and store them in the refrigerator. The capers will be ready to use in about one week but will develop a better flavor after a month. They can last in the refrigerator for several months.
Salt-Cured vs. Brined Capers: A Comparison
| Feature | Dry Salt-Cured Capers | Brine-Pickled Capers |
|---|---|---|
| Flavor Profile | Intense, concentrated, savory, almost floral. | Tangy, bright, and distinctly vinegary. |
| Texture | Meaty and tender. | Firmer and crisper. |
| Preparation Time | Longer overall process, 3-5 weeks. | Quicker to prepare, ready in 1-4 weeks. |
| Storage | Shelf-stable in a cool, dark place for up to a year. | Requires refrigeration for long-term storage. |
| Pre-Use Prep | Requires thorough rinsing or soaking to reduce saltiness. | A quick rinse may be needed to remove excess brine. |
What About Caper Berries and Leaves?
If you let the caper buds mature on the plant, they will produce larger, olive-shaped caper berries. These can also be prepared using a pickling process similar to the one for the buds, although they may have a slightly different flavor profile and require a longer curing time. Caper leaves can also be blanched and brined for a unique, edible garnish.
Using Your Homemade Capers
Homemade cured capers can elevate a wide range of dishes. They are perfect for adding a salty, tangy kick to pasta sauces like puttanesca, as a garnish for fish dishes, or mixed into tapenades and vinaigrettes. Try adding them to a lemon-butter sauce for pan-seared fish or chopping them finely into a fresh salsa to top grilled chicken. They also make a delicious addition to pizzas or salads for a burst of briny flavor. For more inspiration, visit America's Test Kitchen for additional recipes and ideas.
Conclusion
Preparing raw capers at home is a rewarding process that transforms a bitter raw material into a versatile and flavorful culinary ingredient. Whether you prefer the concentrated, meaty texture of salt-cured capers or the bright, tangy crispness of brine-pickled ones, both methods are accessible and produce excellent results. With just a little patience, you can enjoy the distinctive taste of homemade capers in your cooking for months to come, adding a touch of the Mediterranean to your kitchen.
