Shortening: A Historical Perspective and Modern Redesign
Shortening is a solid fat used in baking and frying to achieve a tender, flaky texture. Historically, the term broadly referred to any fat solid at room temperature, including lard, tallow, and butter. However, the rise of industrial food production in the 20th century popularized vegetable shortening, which was manufactured through a process called partial hydrogenation. This process, which turns liquid vegetable oil into a solid fat, was later discovered to create industrially-produced trans fats—a major health concern linked to cardiovascular disease, stroke, and systemic inflammation.
The widespread recognition of trans fat's dangers prompted significant change. In 2015, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) declared partially hydrogenated oils (PHOs) unsafe and banned their use in most food products, with the ban fully taking effect in 2021. This regulatory action forced manufacturers to reformulate shortening. Modern vegetable shortening is now made using full hydrogenation, which does not produce trans fats, or through interesterification, a process where fully hydrogenated oils are blended with liquid oils to create a spreadable fat.
The Nutritional Landscape of Today's Shortening
With the removal of trans fats, the question of whether it is bad to use shortening has shifted. The answer lies in moderation and understanding its nutritional profile. Modern shortening is trans fat-free, but it is still a highly processed product. It is 100% fat and is very high in calories, offering minimal vitamins and minerals.
- A tablespoon of all-vegetable shortening contains about 110 calories and 12 grams of fat.
- It contains saturated and unsaturated fats, but lacks the beneficial micronutrients found in less processed alternatives.
Potential Concerns with Modern Formulations
The shift to full hydrogenation and interesterification, while eliminating trans fats, has introduced new points of inquiry regarding health impacts. The long-term health effects of interesterified fats are not yet fully understood and have not been studied extensively in humans. Some rat studies have suggested potential links to inflammation, altered blood sugar control, and fat gain, though more research is needed. For this reason, many health experts advise limiting the consumption of highly processed foods, including those made with shortening.
Functional Benefits: When Shortening Shines
Despite its nutritional drawbacks, shortening remains a valuable ingredient for bakers aiming for specific textures. Its unique properties make it excel in certain applications where butter or oil simply can't compare.
- Superior Flakiness: Shortening's high melting point means it stays solid longer during baking, creating distinct layers of fat and dough that result in an exceptionally flaky texture, perfect for pie crusts.
- Neutral Flavor: Its neutral taste allows the other flavors in a recipe, such as vanilla or citrus, to come to the forefront. This is especially useful for icings and frostings where a clean, white appearance is desired.
- Increased Tenderness: In cookies and cakes, shortening coats gluten strands, preventing them from developing into a chewy, stretchy texture. The result is a softer, more tender crumb that is characteristic of many classic baked goods.
- High Smoke Point for Frying: Shortening is an excellent choice for frying due to its high smoke point and lack of water, which reduces splattering and produces a crisp, golden-brown finish.
Shortening vs. Butter: A Comparison
| Feature | Shortening (Vegetable) | Butter |
|---|---|---|
| Composition | 100% fat, no water or dairy | Approx. 80-86% fat, plus water and milk solids |
| Melting Point | Higher (115-120°F) | Lower (90-95°F) |
| Flavor | Neutral, bland | Rich, creamy, and flavorful |
| Texture | Flaky pie crusts, softer cookies, stable frostings | Tender, flat, and crispier cookies, excellent flavor |
| Health | Highly processed, trans fat-free but check for saturated fat | Source of saturated fat and vitamins, but watch intake |
| Best For | Flaky pie crusts, tall cookies, stable buttercream | Flavorful cookies, shortbreads, cakes where butter is key |
Healthier Alternatives to Shortening
For those looking to reduce their intake of processed fats, several alternatives can be used depending on the recipe's needs. While they may change the final texture, they can offer a healthier nutritional profile.
- Butter: A flavorful, less processed alternative, though higher in saturated fat. Use 20% more butter than the recipe calls for shortening to account for the water content.
- Coconut Oil: Unrefined coconut oil is a naturally solid fat that can be a good substitute. Be aware of its distinct coconut flavor, unless using a refined version.
- Lard: While an animal product, natural, unhydrogenated lard is a solid fat that can be a flavorful and less processed alternative, especially for flaky crusts.
- Liquid Oils: For recipes where the fat is melted, such as some cakes or muffins, high-quality liquid oils like olive or avocado oil are excellent choices with heart-healthy unsaturated fats.
Conclusion
So, is it bad to use shortening? Not in the same way it was for decades. The elimination of industrially-produced trans fats has removed the most dangerous aspect of its consumption. However, modern shortening is still a highly processed, calorie-dense fat that offers little nutritional value. While it provides specific functional benefits in baking that are difficult to replicate, it's not a health food and should be used in moderation. For everyday cooking and baking, less processed and more nutrient-rich alternatives like butter, coconut oil, or liquid vegetable oils are often a better choice for your overall health. For those specific recipes that demand the unique texture shortening provides, it can still be used sparingly as a functional ingredient.
For more information on fats and their health implications, the World Health Organization (WHO) provides helpful guidelines on limiting trans fat intake globally. https://www.who.int/news-room/fact-sheets/detail/trans-fat.
