The Surprising History of Two Kitchen Staples
To understand the current debate, it's essential to look back at the history of these two ubiquitous fats. Lard, rendered from pig fat, has been a culinary staple for centuries, prized for creating flaky pastries and flavorful fried foods. Its reputation began to wane in the early 1900s, coinciding with the rise of industrial food processing and the demonization of animal fats.
In 1911, Procter & Gamble introduced Crisco, the first vegetable shortening made from hydrogenated vegetable oil, initially cottonseed oil. It was aggressively marketed as a healthier, more modern, and more economical alternative to animal-based fats, swaying public opinion away from lard. However, the hydrogenation process used to create early Crisco produced high levels of trans fats, which were later identified as a major risk factor for heart disease.
The Great Reformulation: How Crisco Changed
In response to mounting health concerns and eventual FDA regulations, Crisco and other vegetable shortenings were reformulated to remove trans fats. Modern Crisco is now made from a blend of soybean oil, fully hydrogenated palm oil, and palm oil, and is legally labeled as having zero grams of trans fat per serving. This change largely resolved the most significant health issue associated with early shortening. However, critics point out that the hydrogenation process still produces an ultra-processed fat, and some studies suggest that interesterified fats used to achieve its solid texture may have their own unknown long-term health effects.
Is Lard Safer? A Look at the Nutritional Profile
Pure, minimally processed lard has experienced a culinary resurgence, praised for its natural composition and superior cooking qualities. Its fatty acid profile is composed of roughly 40% saturated, 50% monounsaturated, and 10% polyunsaturated fats. This is a more favorable ratio than butter and surprisingly similar to olive oil in its high monounsaturated fat content. High-quality lard, especially from pasture-raised pigs, also contains significant amounts of vitamin D, which is rarely found in other fats.
Comparison of Lard and Crisco
| Feature | Pure, Rendered Lard | Modern Crisco (Vegetable Shortening) |
|---|---|---|
| Source | Animal (Pork) | Vegetable (Soybean, Palm) |
| Processing | Minimally processed (rendered) | Highly processed (hydrogenation, interesterification) |
| Trans Fat | 0g (pure, unhydrogenated) | 0g per serving* |
| Saturated Fat | ~40% | ~29% (higher in butter-flavored) |
| Monounsaturated Fat | ~50% (High Oleic Acid) | ~21-25% |
| Vitamin D | High in pasture-raised lard | None |
| Omega-6/Omega-3 Ratio | Balanced in pasture-raised lard | Often high in omega-6s |
| Flavor | Mild to neutral (leaf lard), or savory | Neutral |
*The FDA allows products with less than 0.5g of trans fat per serving to be labeled as 0g.
The Risks and Benefits of Both
While modern Crisco has addressed the trans fat problem, its high degree of industrial processing remains a concern for some health-conscious consumers. The long-term effects of interesterified fats are still largely unknown, and the reliance on omega-6-rich vegetable oils can contribute to inflammation if the diet is not balanced with omega-3s.
On the other hand, the primary health consideration for lard is its high saturated fat content, though it is lower in saturated fat than butter. Medical opinions on the role of saturated fat have evolved, and some experts suggest a moderate intake of high-quality, naturally occurring saturated fats from sources like lard is not as harmful as once believed. The vitamin D content in high-quality lard is a notable health benefit.
The Verdict: Lard vs. Crisco Safety
The question of whether lard is safer than Crisco is nuanced and depends heavily on the type of fat being compared. Pure, unhydrogenated lard is arguably safer and a more nutritious choice than past formulations of Crisco that contained trans fats. Modern, trans-fat-free Crisco has improved its safety profile significantly. However, for those prioritizing minimally processed, natural ingredients, lard—especially pasture-raised leaf lard—is the clearer winner due to its superior fatty acid composition and vitamin D content. For vegetarian or neutral-flavored applications, modern Crisco may be a reasonable, though still highly processed, choice. It is important to remember that the health implications of any fat depend on moderation and the overall context of one's diet.
For more in-depth nutritional information, consult a resource like Healthline on the safety of shortening.
The Best Applications for Each Fat
- For flaky pie crusts and biscuits: High-quality leaf lard is a top choice due to its large fat crystals, which create superior flakiness.
- For deep-frying: Both have high smoke points, making them suitable, but pure lard offers a richer, more traditional flavor.
- For vegans and vegetarians: Crisco is the obvious choice, being a plant-based product.
- For neutral flavor in baked goods: Modern Crisco's neutral flavor makes it ideal for frostings and delicate pastries where a savory note is undesirable.
- For general high-heat cooking: Pure lard is an excellent option that provides a clean, heat-stable fat for sautéing and roasting.
Conclusion
The historical marketing of Crisco as a healthy replacement for lard was misleading, particularly during the era of trans fats. While modern Crisco has removed these harmful fats, its heavily processed nature and high omega-6 content raise new health questions. In contrast, minimally processed, pasture-raised lard offers a natural fat source rich in monounsaturated fats and vitamin D, making it a strong contender for the healthier option. Ultimately, the choice between lard and Crisco depends on dietary values—natural vs. industrial processing—and the specific culinary application. Informed consumers seeking the most natural and potentially nutrient-rich option may find pure lard to be the safer and more beneficial choice.
