Understanding the Complex Flavor of Perilla
Perilla is a multifaceted herb known for its rich, aromatic, and sometimes surprising taste. Belonging to the mint family (Lamiaceae), its flavor is a mosaic of mint, basil, and anise, often with a subtly grassy, herbaceous, and musky quality. The intensity and specific notes depend heavily on the cultivar and how it is consumed, whether raw, pickled, or cooked. For first-timers, the flavor can be intense and slightly bitter, but it is considered an acquired taste that can be appreciated more with repeated exposure. The herb's strong aroma makes it an excellent accompaniment to richer foods, helping to cut through fattiness and refresh the palate.
Korean Perilla (Kkaennip)
In Korean cuisine, kkaennip is a beloved staple. The leaves are typically larger and flatter than their Japanese counterparts and boast a strong, unique, nutty, and slightly licorice-like flavor profile. This intensity makes them a perfect pairing for fatty grilled meats during Korean BBQ, where they are used as wraps known as ssam. They are also famously pickled into a popular banchan (side dish) called kkaennip jangajji, where they are layered with a spicy, savory marinade of soy sauce, chili flakes, and garlic.
Japanese Shiso (Ao Shiso and Akajiso)
Japanese shiso is a well-known variety of perilla, with two main types, each with a distinct flavor. Green shiso (ao shiso) is known for its bright, minty, and citrusy flavor with possible hints of cinnamon or clove. These leaves have more jagged edges than the Korean variety and are commonly used as an elegant garnish for sushi and sashimi or shredded into salads. Red shiso (akajiso), on the other hand, has a more bitter and robust taste and is prized primarily for its deep reddish-purple hue. It is often used in pickling, famously coloring umeboshi (pickled plums) and is also used to create refreshing beverages.
The Versatile Perilla Oil
Beyond the leaves, the seeds of the perilla plant, known as deulkkae in Korean, are toasted and pressed to make perilla oil. This oil has a nutty and earthy flavor with a distinct licorice or anise finish. In Korean cooking, it is used as a finishing oil for various dishes, from soups and seasoned vegetables to drizzled over rice. The toasted, ground seeds are also used as a nutty condiment for soups and desserts.
Comparison of Perilla Varieties
| Variety | Appearance | Flavor Profile | Common Uses | Preparation | Citations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Korean Perilla (Kkaennip) | Large, broad, flat, with a prominent stem; green top, often purple underside. | Strong, minty, nutty, with anise or licorice notes. | Korean BBQ wraps (ssam), pickled side dish (jangajji), stir-fries. | Raw, marinated, stir-fried. | ,,,, |
| Japanese Green Shiso (Aojiso) | Smaller, oval, with jagged edges; bright green on both sides. | Bright, fresh, citrusy, minty, with hints of cinnamon and basil. | Sashimi garnish, tempura, noodle dishes, salads. | Raw, fried, added to cocktails. | ,,,, |
| Japanese Red Shiso (Akajiso) | Red or deep purplish leaves, often with more bitterness. | More bitter and potent than green shiso. | Pickling (umeboshi), infusions for beverages, coloring agent. | Pickled, infused, dried (yukari). | ,, |
| Vietnamese Perilla (Tia Tô) | Often a bronze-colored top with a vibrant purple underside. | Potent, distinct flavor, typically used with other herbs. | Fresh herb platters for dishes like pho and bún chả. | Raw, served with noodle soups. | , |
Culinary Uses and Flavor Pairings
Perilla's unique taste profile makes it incredibly versatile in the kitchen. Here are some of its common uses:
- As a fresh wrap: In Korean BBQ, fresh kkaennip leaves are used as wrappers (ssam) for grilled meats like bulgogi or kalbi, rice, and sauces. The freshness of the leaf perfectly balances the richness of the meat. In Japan, green shiso wraps are used for raw fish.
- Pickled and marinated: Marinating perilla leaves in a savory, seasoned soy sauce mixture is a common way to enjoy them as a banchan. This preparation softens the leaves and infuses them with a complex blend of spicy, salty, and aromatic flavors.
- Fried and tempura: For a crunchy texture, perilla leaves can be battered and deep-fried, similar to tempura. This cooking method mellows the strong herbaceous flavor, resulting in a milder, savory taste.
- Garnish and seasoning: Chopped perilla can be added to salads, rice bowls, or noodle dishes for a burst of fresh flavor. The ground, toasted seeds are used as a nutty seasoning for soups and side dishes.
- Beverages and infusions: The red variety, in particular, is used to make vibrant and refreshing infused drinks. The leaves can also be steeped to create herbal teas.
- For more inspiration on cooking with this fragrant herb, check out this guide on Saveur.
The Taste Journey of Perilla
The perception of perilla's flavor can be a journey. Raw leaves provide the most pungent, full-bodied experience, showcasing the mint, anise, and basil notes most prominently. The textural element, which can be slightly velvety or fuzzy depending on the variety, also contributes to the eating experience. As the leaves are softened through marinating, pickling, or steaming, the flavor becomes more integrated with the other ingredients, adding a complex depth rather than a dominant taste. Perilla oil, made from the toasted seeds, offers a completely different, nutty and earthy dimension to the plant's profile.
It is important to recognize that while perilla is related to mint, its flavor is not simply a stronger version. The combination of its different aromatic compounds, such as perilla ketone, egoma ketone, and isoegoma ketone, creates a taste that is uniquely its own. The flavor can range from bright and grassy to deeply earthy and nutty, all depending on the specific plant variety and culinary context. For many, perilla offers a sensory experience unlike any other herb, which is why it holds a revered place in East Asian culinary traditions.
Conclusion
Perilla is an exceptionally flavorful herb with a complexity that belies its simple appearance. Its taste is not monolithic but rather a spectrum of notes, from bright mint and citrus to earthy anise and nutty undertones, all within the same plant species. The key to understanding what perilla tastes like is to appreciate the distinct profiles of its different varieties, such as the Korean kkaennip and Japanese shiso, and to explore how various preparation methods can alter and enhance its unique flavor. Whether used fresh in wraps, pickled as a side dish, or pressed into a savory oil, perilla offers a dynamic and rewarding culinary experience for those who embrace its robust and aromatic character.
