A Tale of Two Fats: Historical Context
For decades, the answer to "which is worse, Crisco or butter?" was simple: Crisco. First introduced in 1911 as a cheap alternative to lard and butter, Crisco was made with partially hydrogenated vegetable oils that contained high levels of trans fats. Numerous studies linked these artificial trans fats to poor heart health, leading the FDA to effectively ban them from the food supply in 2018.
This ban forced manufacturers, including Crisco's, to reformulate their products. Today's Crisco is made with fully hydrogenated oils, which technically do not contain trans fats. This reformulation removes Crisco's most significant historical health hazard, shifting the debate entirely.
Modern Crisco vs. Traditional Butter: The Nutritional Breakdown
Without trans fats, the modern comparison focuses on saturated fat, processing, and micronutrients. A typical tablespoon of butter contains approximately 7 grams of saturated fat, while modern Crisco contains around 3.5 grams—about 50% less. This fact alone made Crisco's marketing point for decades. However, the story doesn't end there.
The Processing and Ingredients Debate
- Crisco: As a blend of oils like soybean and palm oil, Crisco is 100% fat and is manufactured through significant processing, including full hydrogenation and interesterification to achieve its solid state. Interesterified fats are a relatively new ingredient with limited long-term health studies, and some nutritionists remain cautious. The product is also nutritionally void, containing no significant vitamins or minerals.
- Butter: As a natural dairy product, butter contains butterfat, milk solids, and water. While it is churned, it is far less processed than vegetable shortening and contains vitamins A, E, and K. However, the saturated fat and cholesterol content in butter are points of concern for heart health, though moderate intake can be part of a balanced diet.
Comparison Table: Crisco vs. Butter
| Feature | Crisco (Modern) | Butter (Typical) |
|---|---|---|
| Saturated Fat (per tbsp) | ~3.5g | ~7g |
| Trans Fat | 0g (artificial) | <0.5g (natural) |
| Processing Level | Highly processed (hydrogenation, interesterification) | Minimally processed (churned dairy) |
| Nutritional Content | Nutritionally void (no significant vitamins) | Contains Vitamins A, E, K; some calcium |
| Flavor | Neutral, flavorless | Rich, distinct creamy flavor |
| Best for Flakiness | Superior for flaky pie crusts | Good, but produces a less delicate flake |
| Best for Spreading | Less spread for tall, tender cookies | More spread for flatter, crispier cookies |
Where Each Fat Excels in the Kitchen
Your baking goals often determine the better choice. In recipes where a neutral flavor is desired and a flaky texture is paramount, such as pie crusts, modern Crisco is arguably the superior choice. Its 100% fat content and higher melting point prevent gluten from fully developing, resulting in a tender, crumbly texture. For cookies that you want to be taller and softer, Crisco's higher melting point means they won't spread as much during baking.
In contrast, butter is prized for its rich, unmistakable flavor that enhances cookies, cakes, and other baked goods. The water content in butter creates steam during baking, contributing to a crispier texture and a richer browning. For recipes like shortbread, where the buttery flavor is the star, there's no substitute. Many bakers find a combination of both butter and shortening offers the best of both worlds: great flavor and texture.
Conclusion: Which is Worse?
The question of which is worse, Crisco or butter, no longer has a single clear answer, but rather a more balanced, contextual one. The days of villainizing Crisco for its artificial trans fats are over. However, this doesn't automatically make it a healthy choice. Modern Crisco is a highly processed, nutritionally empty product, and the long-term effects of interesterified fats are not fully understood. Butter, while higher in saturated fat and cholesterol, is a more natural product with some nutritional benefits.
The final verdict depends on your personal health priorities. If minimizing processed foods and valuing natural ingredients is your goal, butter used in moderation is the better choice. If reducing saturated fat is your primary concern, and you're comfortable with highly processed fats, Crisco has a lower saturated fat count. Ultimately, consuming either fat in excess is ill-advised. For guidance on heart-healthy fat intake, the American Heart Association offers helpful recommendations: Healthy Cooking Oils.
Final Recommendations:
- For Flavor: Choose butter, as its dairy notes enhance taste in cookies, cakes, and pastries.
- For Texture: Choose modern Crisco for maximum flakiness in pie crusts and for producing tall, soft cookies that spread less.
- For Health: Neither is a health food, but butter is less processed and offers some nutrients. For lower saturated fat, modern Crisco is an option, but its heavily processed nature and novel fats are a concern for some.
- For Versatility: Use a combination of both to balance flavor and texture while potentially moderating saturated fat intake.
