A History of Cultural and Religious Aversion
For centuries, Japanese society was shaped by a diet focused on rice, fish, and vegetables, with a strong cultural and religious distaste for meat and dairy. The reasons for this are rooted in significant historical milestones and deeply held beliefs.
The Influence of Buddhism
One of the most potent forces behind the absence of milk in the Japanese diet was the introduction of Buddhism in the 6th century. Emperor Temmu issued the first official decree banning the consumption of meat from cattle, horses, dogs, monkeys, and chickens in A.D. 675. This prohibition, and subsequent reinforcing edicts, were tied to Buddhist principles of not killing living creatures. Since cows were not a food source, they were not viewed as dairy animals either. This fostered a societal norm that viewed milk as unpalatable and foreign, especially among the common people.
Dairy as a Royal Delicacy
While the masses abstained, dairy products were known to the aristocratic elite during Japan's ancient periods. Records from the Asuka period mention a dairy product called so, brought to Japan from the Korean peninsula. The Heian court also enjoyed daigo, a refined, rare dairy treat. However, these were exclusive, expensive, and viewed more as medicinal tonics for the imperial family than as everyday food. As the aristocratic culture faded, so did the production and knowledge of these early dairy products. The tradition never spread to the general populace and essentially disappeared for centuries.
Genetic and Agricultural Impediments
Beyond religious bans, biological and practical limitations further cemented Japan's milk-free diet for the majority of its history.
Widespread Lactose Intolerance
Today, a significant portion of the Japanese population—estimates range from 70% to 90%—is lactose intolerant. This is due to 'lactase non-persistence,' a genetic trait common in East Asian populations, where the body produces less lactase enzyme after infancy. For most of Japanese history, before the introduction of dairy products, there was no evolutionary pressure to maintain lactase persistence, making the consumption of raw milk an unpleasant, if not painful, experience for many adults.
Rice Culture and Work Animals
Japanese agriculture has historically centered on rice cultivation. Cattle, when kept, were highly valuable as work animals to plow rice paddies, not as a source of milk. Prioritizing the strength and longevity of work animals meant that milking them was both unnecessary and, to some, potentially detrimental. Furthermore, native Japanese cattle breeds were not known for high milk production, unlike European breeds. The infrastructure for large-scale dairy farming simply did not exist for most of Japanese history.
Climate and Food Preservation
Japan's humid, warm climate presented challenges for the preservation of fresh dairy products before the advent of modern refrigeration. In contrast, a rice-based diet, fermented products like miso and soy sauce, and fish are more suited to the local environment. This made dairy products both culturally taboo and practically difficult to incorporate into the daily diet.
The Shift to Modern Consumption
With the Meiji Restoration in 1868, the government pushed for rapid Westernization. Promoting meat and milk consumption was part of a campaign to symbolically and literally 'strengthen' the Japanese people to be on par with Western nations. However, widespread adoption was slow due to existing cultural wariness.
Timeline of Modern Dairy Adoption:
- Meiji Era (late 19th century): Government promotes dairy for health; early farms established in Hokkaido.
- Post-WWII: School lunch programs, often including milk, are introduced, significantly increasing exposure and consumption among children.
- Late 20th Century: Dairy becomes more common, especially in desserts and Western-style food, but consumption remains lower than in Western countries.
Comparison of Japanese and Western Dairy Traditions
| Feature | Historical Japanese Tradition | Historical Western Tradition |
|---|---|---|
| Primary Use of Cattle | Work animals for plowing fields | Food source (meat) and dairy production |
| Religious Influence | Buddhist prohibitions on meat/dairy consumption | Minimal religious barriers; often integrated into diet |
| Dietary Staple | Rice, fish, vegetables | Grains, meat, and significant dairy |
| Lactose Tolerance | Widespread intolerance (lactase non-persistence) | Higher prevalence of lactose tolerance (lactase persistence) |
| Cultural Perception | Foreign, potentially impure, unpalatable | Familiar, staple food, often symbolizing health |
| Dairy Product Status | Rare delicacy for the elite or non-existent | Widespread commodity used in many dishes |
Conclusion: A Blend of Reasons
The historical reluctance to drink milk in Japan was not due to a single factor but a combination of deeply embedded cultural, religious, and biological reasons. From Buddhist bans on meat to the practicalities of a rice-based agricultural society and the high prevalence of lactose intolerance, dairy simply never found a place in the traditional diet. While government promotion during the Meiji Restoration and the influence of post-war school lunch programs have increased milk consumption, particularly among younger generations, the legacy of a dairy-free past and ongoing lactose intolerance continues to influence dietary habits today. The story of milk in Japan is a compelling case study in how culture, biology, and history shape a nation's culinary landscape.
Additional Resources
- National Institutes of Health (NIH): Lactose Intolerance - StatPearls - NCBI Bookshelf
- J-Milk.jp: THE HISTORY OF MILK IN JAPAN
