Why were tomatoes considered toxic?

For over 200 years, many Europeans believed tomatoes were poisonous, earning them the infamous nickname 'poison apple'. The story of why were tomatoes considered toxic is a surprising tale of botanical confusion, class divides, and deadly dinnerware.

Quick Summary

European aristocrats believed tomatoes were poisonous due to illnesses caused by lead leaching from pewter plates. The fruit was also unfairly feared for its nightshade family ties, a reputation debunked by culinary pioneers and the simple logic of peasants using wooden bowls.

Key Points

• Nightshade Fear: The tomato belongs to the nightshade family, leading to early European fear due to its botanical relation to truly toxic plants like deadly nightshade.

• Pewter Plates: Wealthy Europeans who ate tomatoes off pewter plates experienced lead poisoning because the fruit's acidity leached lead from the dinnerware.

• Class Divide: Poor people, who used wooden plates instead of pewter, ate tomatoes without any ill effects, reinforcing the aristocracy's mistaken belief.

• False Attribution: Instead of correctly identifying the lead-tainted pewter as the cause of sickness, aristocrats blamed the unfamiliar and supposedly toxic tomato.

• John Gerard's Influence: The prominent 16th-century herbalist John Gerard's negative and inaccurate writings about the tomato further solidified its toxic reputation in Europe for generations.

• Culinary Acceptance: The tomato eventually gained acceptance, especially in Southern European countries like Italy and Spain, as culinary pioneers proved its safety and deliciousness over time.

The Root of the Fear: Botanical Misconceptions

When Spanish explorers introduced tomatoes to Europe in the 16th century, they were met with extreme suspicion. One of the main reasons for this distrust was their biological classification. The tomato belongs to the Solanaceae family, more commonly known as the nightshade family. This family includes several genuinely poisonous plants, such as deadly nightshade (Atropa belladonna).

• Because of the family connection, early herbalists and botanists classified tomatoes incorrectly.
• In his influential 1597 book, Herball, English herbalist John Gerard described the tomato as having a "ranke and stinking savour," which cemented its negative reputation in Britain and beyond.
• While the fruit itself is safe, the stems and leaves of the tomato plant do contain toxic glycoalkaloids, like tomatine, which further contributed to the misunderstanding.
• The resemblance of the tomato plant's flowers to those of its toxic relatives was a major red flag for Europeans at the time, who sensibly avoided eating unknown berries from suspicious-looking plants.

A Deadly Tableware: The Lead Poisoning Theory

For the European aristocracy, a far more sinister and deadly factor was at play. Wealthy families used expensive dinnerware made from pewter, an alloy containing a high percentage of lead. This turned a seemingly harmless new fruit into a potential killer.

Here's how the tragic misunderstanding unfolded:

• Tomatoes are naturally acidic.
• When acidic food, like tomatoes, was served on pewter plates, the acid leached the lead from the metal.
• Diners unknowingly ingested this lead, leading to severe illness, confusion, and sometimes death from lead poisoning.
• Rather than blaming their high-end tableware, which was a status symbol, the aristocracy mistakenly blamed the unfamiliar and suspect tomato.

Meanwhile, poorer families, who ate from wooden bowls and earthenware, consumed tomatoes without any issues. This stark difference in outcomes only deepened the mystery and cemented the tomato's dangerous reputation among the upper classes.

Debunking the Myths: Acceptance and Culinary Rise

It took centuries for the tomato to shed its negative reputation, and acceptance spread unevenly across Europe. It was in the warmer climates of Southern Europe, particularly Italy and Spain, where tomatoes first took root in the cuisine. The story of the tomato's eventual rise to culinary stardom is marked by several turning points.

• The earliest known European recipe for tomato sauce appeared in a Neapolitan cookbook in 1694, marking a significant culinary embrace of the fruit.
• By the 18th century, tomatoes were a staple in Southern European kitchens, their deliciousness finally overcoming years of suspicion.
• In the United States, a popular anecdote credits Colonel Robert Gibbon Johnson with publicly eating tomatoes on the courthouse steps of Salem, New Jersey, in 1820 to prove they were safe. While this story may be more folklore than fact, it illustrates the public's perception of the fruit at the time.
• The creation of modern pizza in Naples in the late 19th century further cemented the tomato's role as a beloved food, showcasing its versatility and deliciousness to the world.

Historical Factors vs. Modern Knowledge: A Comparison

Factor	Historical Belief (16th-18th Century)	Modern Scientific Fact (Today)
Toxicity of Fruit	The fruit is poisonous, a "poison apple" capable of causing illness and death.	The fruit is not poisonous and is a rich source of vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants.
Nightshade Family	Guilt by association; since other nightshades are toxic, the tomato must be too.	While related to poisonous plants, the edible fruit is safe; toxicity is found primarily in leaves and stems.
Cause of Illness	The fruit itself is the cause of sickness and death among aristocrats.	Lead poisoning from pewter plates, not the tomato, was the real culprit.
Tableware Effect	The type of dinnerware was an irrelevant detail overlooked by the wealthy.	Poorer people, eating from wooden plates, were not harmed, proving the tableware was the issue.

Conclusion

The reputation of the tomato as a toxic food was a perfect storm of botanical misinformation and socio-economic factors. Its association with the nightshade family created initial suspicion, but it was the unfortunate reality of lead poisoning from pewter plates among the wealthy that gave the myth its deadliest teeth. The delicious and nutritious fruit was unjustly demonized for centuries, only to be reclaimed by culinary traditions around the world. The tomato's journey from feared 'poison apple' to global kitchen staple serves as a powerful reminder of how misunderstandings can shape history and how a simple change in perspective can revolutionize our food. To learn more about this fascinating history, read this Smithsonian Magazine article.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the tomato plant itself toxic?

Yes, while the ripe tomato fruit is safe and nutritious, the leaves, stems, and unripe green tomatoes contain toxic glycoalkaloids and should not be consumed.

Why was the tomato called the 'poison apple'?

The nickname 'poison apple' originated because wealthy European aristocrats were getting sick and dying after eating them. The real cause was lead poisoning from their pewter plates, which the tomato's acid reacted with, but the fruit received the blame.

Did Christopher Columbus introduce tomatoes to Europe?

While Columbus is often associated with the Columbian Exchange, it was Spanish conquistadors like Hernán Cortés who brought tomato seeds to Europe in the 16th century after finding them in Mexico.

How long did the myth of the poisonous tomato last?

The myth persisted for nearly 200 years in some parts of Europe, with tomatoes being grown primarily as ornamental plants rather than food. Acceptance began to grow in the 18th century.

Did Italians and Spanish people always eat tomatoes?

No. Despite their current association with these cuisines, tomatoes were not native to Europe and were initially met with suspicion. They were gradually adopted in Southern Europe, particularly Italy and Spain, centuries after their introduction.

What is the nightshade family?

The nightshade family, or Solanaceae, is a plant family that includes over 2,000 species. While some, like belladonna, are poisonous, it also contains many edible plants such as tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, and peppers.

How was the myth debunked?

Over time, evidence showed that it was the lead content in pewter plates, not the tomatoes, causing illness. The growing popularity of tomatoes in Southern Europe and culinary pioneers also helped prove their safety.