From Trans Fats to Interesterification: The Health Evolution of Shortening
For many years, the primary health concern associated with shortening was its high content of artificial trans fats, created during the partial hydrogenation of vegetable oils. These fats were linked to serious health problems, including elevated 'bad' LDL cholesterol and lowered 'good' HDL cholesterol, increasing the risk of heart disease and stroke. The US FDA's ban on partially hydrogenated oils in 2018 addressed this issue, forcing manufacturers to reformulate.
Modern shortening now uses fully hydrogenated oils, which are trans fat-free. However, this process creates a fat that is too hard for many baking applications, so it is often blended with liquid oil through a process called interesterification. While this creates a spreadable fat with zero trans fat, research into the long-term health effects of interesterified fats is still limited and some animal studies have shown potentially negative outcomes, such as inflammation and impaired blood sugar control.
Shortening vs. Butter vs. Lard: A Comparison
Choosing the right fat depends on the desired texture and flavor profile. While shortening has its benefits, especially for producing flaky pastry and soft cookies, it falls short on flavor and nutritional value compared to other options.
Comparison of Common Baking Fats
| Feature | Vegetable Shortening | Butter | Lard |
|---|---|---|---|
| Composition | 100% processed vegetable oil | ~80% fat, 16% water, milk solids | 100% rendered pork fat |
| Flavor | Neutral | Rich, buttery, creamy | Rich, savory (some varieties neutral) |
| Melting Point | High | Low | High |
| Texture | Very tender, soft, high-rising baked goods | Flaky, crispy, flavorful baked goods | Very flaky, tender pastries |
| Health | Highly processed; interesterified fats are a concern | Contains more saturated fat, but also vitamins A, E, K | High in monounsaturated fats; naturally occurring |
The Problem with High Processing
Beyond the specific fat composition, another issue with many modern shortenings is the level of industrial processing. The journey from raw vegetable oil to a solid block of shortening involves hydrogenation and often interesterification. This intensive processing removes most, if not all, of the natural vitamins and minerals present in the source oil. The result is a nutritionally sparse product that serves primarily as a calorie-dense fat. Whole food alternatives like butter and lard, while needing moderation, retain more of their inherent nutritional profile. Coconut oil, another plant-based solid fat, is also less processed and contains healthy medium-chained fats, though it does add a distinct flavor.
Alternatives for Baking and Frying
If you are concerned with what is wrong with shortening, there are several healthy and delicious alternatives for your baking and frying needs. For pie crusts, a combination of butter and lard is often favored by bakers for the perfect balance of flavor and flakiness. For cookies and cakes, butter offers a richer flavor profile, though using a 50/50 blend of butter and a trans fat-free shortening can prevent excessive spreading. Coconut oil can be a vegan substitute for shortening, but be mindful of its flavor. For frying, oils with high smoke points like avocado or clarified butter (ghee) are excellent, less-processed options. Reading ingredient labels is crucial, as some store-bought shortenings can still contain hydrogenated oils or trace amounts of trans fats despite regulations. A great resource for understanding fats is the Institute of Food Science and Technology, which provides insights into food science.
Conclusion: Informed Choices for Healthier Baking
While the original danger of trans fats in shortening has been largely eliminated, the product remains a highly processed, nutritionally deficient fat. Modern manufacturing techniques like interesterification have raised new questions about long-term health effects. For those prioritizing flavor, texture, and natural ingredients, alternatives like butter, lard, and coconut oil offer superior choices. Understanding what is wrong with shortening helps consumers make more informed decisions about the ingredients they use in their kitchens, ultimately leading to healthier, and often tastier, results.