What are the key differences between shortening and lard?
Before determining which is worse, it's essential to understand what each fat is. Lard is rendered pork fat, prized for its flavor and flaky results in baking. It is a naturally occurring animal product. Shortening, on the other hand, is a processed vegetable fat made from oils like soybean or palm oil. It was invented in the early 20th century as a shelf-stable, cheaper alternative to animal fats. The core difference lies in their source and level of processing.
The health debate: Trans fats vs. saturated fats
For a long time, saturated fat was considered the primary villain in the diet, which hurt lard's reputation. This perception, however, led to the rise of partially hydrogenated vegetable oils—the original shortening—which were later discovered to contain dangerous trans fats. Trans fats are known to increase bad LDL cholesterol while lowering good HDL cholesterol, significantly raising the risk of heart disease. Following widespread bans on partially hydrogenated oils (which occurred in the U.S. in 2020), most modern shortening is now trans-fat-free but still highly processed. Lard, by contrast, is a natural fat that, when unhydrogenated, contains no trans fats. It is important to note that many store-bought, shelf-stable lards can contain hydrogenated fats, so fresh or quality-sourced lard is the better option.
Nutritional comparison: A closer look
Looking beyond trans fats, the nutritional profiles of shortening and lard offer a more nuanced picture. While lard is often demonized for its saturated fat content, it actually contains a higher proportion of heart-healthy monounsaturated fats than butter. Pastured, high-quality lard can also be a source of Vitamin D. Modern shortening, though trans-fat-free, is often made from interesterified vegetable oils, and the long-term health effects of these fats are still under investigation.
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Lard's Strengths:
- Higher monounsaturated fat content than butter.
- Source of Vitamin D if from pastured pigs.
- Natural product with minimal processing.
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Lard's Weaknesses:
- High in saturated fat.
- Less suitable for vegan/vegetarian diets.
- Flavor can be too pronounced for some baked goods.
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Shortening's Strengths:
- Neutral flavor for versatile baking.
- Vegan-friendly option.
- No trans fats in modern formulations.
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Shortening's Weaknesses:
- Highly processed.
- Health effects of interesterified fats are not fully known.
- Environmental concerns, particularly with palm oil-based shortening.
Culinary performance and environmental concerns
When it comes to cooking, the performance of each fat can influence your choice. Many bakers prefer lard for creating exceptionally flaky pie crusts due to its large fat crystals. Shortening is often used for tender cookies and icings because its higher melting point provides a more stable texture. From an environmental standpoint, lard from humanely-raised, pastured pigs can be a sustainable by-product of pork farming. In contrast, shortening made with palm oil has been linked to deforestation and significant environmental impact.
| Feature | Lard | Shortening |
|---|---|---|
| Origin | Rendered animal fat (pork) | Processed vegetable oil (soybean, palm) |
| Trans Fats | None (when unhydrogenated) | None in modern formulas, but historically high |
| Saturated Fat | High (approx. 39-43%) | High (approx. 25%) |
| Monounsaturated Fat | High (approx. 47-50%) | Moderate (approx. 41%) |
| Flavor | Rich, savory, distinct pork flavor | Neutral, tasteless |
| Texture in Baking | Best for flaky pie crusts | Best for tender cookies and stable icings |
| Processing | Minimal (rendering) | Highly processed (hydrogenation/interesterification) |
| Vegan Friendly | No | Yes |
| Environmental Impact | Varies by source | Concerns with palm oil sourcing |
Conclusion: So, which is worse?
Considering modern formulations and current health knowledge, historically, shortening was worse due to its high content of harmful trans fats. Today, however, the answer is less clear-cut and depends heavily on the specific product. Fresh, unhydrogenated lard is a natural product that is free of trans fats and contains a high percentage of monounsaturated fats. While still high in saturated fat, it can be a healthier alternative to processed shortenings, especially for culinary tasks like making flaky pastry. Conversely, modern, trans-fat-free shortening is still a highly processed food with unknown long-term health effects from its manufacturing process, and its common use of palm oil can raise environmental concerns. For most consumers, especially those not on a vegan or vegetarian diet, minimally processed lard from a quality source is arguably the better choice from a health and natural-food perspective, as long as it's used in moderation. The old reputation of lard has been largely reversed by the discovery of trans fats, making shortening the clear winner for the title of 'historically worse.'
To summarize: The real "worst" is the processed, partially-hydrogenated shortening of the past. Today, a quality, unhydrogenated lard offers a more natural, nutritionally balanced fat profile than many reformulated vegetable shortenings, but moderation is key for both.
World Health Organization fact sheet on trans fat
Frequently Asked Questions
Is lard healthier than butter?
Some research indicates that lard can be healthier than butter. Lard contains less saturated fat and more monounsaturated fat than butter, and unhydrogenated lard is free of trans fat.
Is modern shortening still bad for you?
While modern shortening is free of partially hydrogenated oils and trans fats, it is still a highly processed food. The health effects of the interesterified fats used to replace trans fats are still being studied, and some rat studies have raised concerns.
Does lard still have a porky flavor?
High-quality, wet-rendered lard has a very neutral flavor that doesn't taste like pork. The distinct, savory pork flavor is more common in dry-rendered lard or drippings.
Is shortening or lard better for pie crusts?
Many bakers prefer lard for pie crusts because its larger fat crystals create a flakier and more tender texture. Shortening is also a good option, especially for a neutral flavor, but lard often wins for texture.
Is it okay to eat lard in moderation?
Yes, like most fats, lard can be consumed in moderation as part of a balanced diet. Because it contains a mix of saturated and monounsaturated fats, it offers some nutritional benefits, especially from pastured pigs.
Why was shortening invented?
Shortening was invented in the early 1900s as a cheaper, more shelf-stable alternative to animal fats like lard and butter. It was marketed as a vegetable-based, and therefore supposedly healthier, option.
Is all shortening vegan?
Most vegetable shortening is made from plant-based oils and is suitable for vegan diets. Lard, being an animal product, is not.
What are healthier alternatives to shortening and lard?
Healthier options include fats with higher levels of unsaturated fats, such as olive oil and avocado oil. For baking where a solid fat is required, some people prefer butter, but it is higher in saturated fat than lard.
How can I tell if shortening is trans-fat-free?
In the U.S., FDA regulations have banned partially hydrogenated oils, the source of trans fats. The nutrition label on modern shortening will indicate "0g trans fat," though it's important to note that amounts under 0.5g per serving can be labeled as zero.
Where does lard get its nutrients?
The nutritional profile of lard is largely based on the diet of the pig. Lard from pastured, well-fed pigs can be a source of Vitamin D and may have a more favorable fatty acid profile than that from conventionally raised pigs.
Why did people switch from lard to shortening?
The shift from lard to shortening was driven by factors like marketing campaigns, lower cost, longer shelf life, and the mid-20th century health narrative that demonized saturated fat. Later, negative publicity surrounding lard's source also played a role.
Can you substitute shortening for lard?
Yes, in many recipes, particularly for baked goods, shortening can be substituted for lard and vice versa. However, the substitution may affect the final flavor and texture, with lard producing flakier results and shortening providing a neutral taste.