For centuries, milk was not a staple in the traditional Chinese diet. The reasons for this are a blend of biological predispositions, cultural values, and agricultural history. While modern-day China is seeing a significant increase in dairy consumption, understanding the historical context reveals a complex and fascinating story.
The Biological Barrier: High Rates of Lactose Intolerance
Perhaps the most significant and straightforward reason is the high prevalence of lactose intolerance among East Asian populations.
- Genetic predisposition: Lactose intolerance is the inability to digest lactose, the main sugar in milk, due to a deficiency of the enzyme lactase. While all human infants produce lactase, its production typically declines after weaning. A genetic mutation for 'lactase persistence,' which allows adults to continue digesting milk, is common in populations with a history of pastoralism, such as Northern Europeans. This mutation is far less common in East Asian populations.
- Unpleasant symptoms: For those with lactose malabsorption, consuming dairy can cause uncomfortable gastrointestinal issues like bloating, gas, cramps, and diarrhea. These symptoms naturally discourage regular milk consumption.
Historical and Cultural Context
Beyond biology, centuries of cultural and historical practices cemented milk's exclusion from the daily diet for most of the population.
The Role of Agriculture and Livestock
China has historically been an agricultural society focused on crop cultivation, particularly rice and millet, rather than pastoralism.
- Cattle as laborers: In the traditional agricultural system, cattle and water buffalo were highly valued as working animals for plowing fields, not as a source of food or milk. Their primary value was in the labor they provided, making it economically inefficient to consume their milk.
- Limited grasslands: Much of China's fertile land was dedicated to farming crops to feed a large, settled population. There was less incentive to develop a dairy-based livestock culture compared to nomadic, pastoral societies like the Mongols, who have a long history of dairy consumption.
Philosophical and Medicinal Perceptions
Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) and cultural beliefs also influenced perceptions of milk.
- Traditional Medicine views: In some TCM schools of thought, milk was considered a medicinal substance rather than a daily dietary item. It was used sparingly for specific purposes, often reserved for the very young or the very old.
- Cultural association with 'barbarians': In ancient times, the consumption of milk and beef was sometimes associated with the nomadic "barbarian" tribes to the north. This social stigma further discouraged the Han Chinese, the country's majority ethnic group, from adopting dairy products.
The Modern Shift: Increasing but Still Low Consumption
In recent decades, urbanization and Western influence have spurred a dramatic increase in China's dairy consumption, though per capita intake remains low compared to the global average.
Reasons for the modern increase:
- Growing health awareness: The government and public health campaigns have promoted milk for its nutritional benefits, particularly for calcium.
- Western influence: The popularity of Western foods like pizza, coffee culture, and milk tea, especially among younger generations, has introduced dairy into new contexts.
- Product innovation: Companies offer a wider range of dairy products, including UHT (ultra-high-temperature) milk, which has a long shelf life suitable for areas with limited refrigeration, and lactose-free options.
Dairy Milk vs. Plant-Based Alternatives
| Feature | Traditional Dairy Milk in China | Traditional Plant-Based Milk (e.g., Soy Milk) |
|---|---|---|
| Historical Use | Limited to specific regions or medicinal purposes; often seen as foreign. | Staple beverage for over 2,000 years, deeply integrated into cuisine. |
| Availability | Historically limited due to lack of pastoral land and refrigeration. | Widely available and affordable, often sold by street vendors for breakfast. |
| Digestion | High prevalence of lactose intolerance causes discomfort for most adults. | Naturally lactose-free, making it easily digestible for a vast majority. |
| Cultural Perception | Historically associated with nomadic cultures; more recently seen as a health supplement. | Long-standing cultural tradition; perceived as a familiar and wholesome food. |
| Modern Popularity | Increasing, especially with Western food trends and health marketing. | Steadily popular, with new plant-based options like oat and almond milk gaining ground. |
Conclusion: A Complex Story of Adaptation and Change
The long-standing reasons why Chinese not drink milk are rooted in a combination of biological realities, historical agricultural practices, and cultural norms. The widespread genetic predisposition to lactose intolerance made dairy consumption uncomfortable for a majority of the population. Concurrently, the use of cattle for fieldwork rather than milk production, combined with cultural views associating dairy with nomadic peoples, further suppressed its integration into the mainstream diet.
However, this narrative is not static. China's rapid economic development, urbanization, and exposure to global food trends have significantly altered dietary habits. Today, dairy products are increasingly consumed for their perceived health benefits, and companies are adapting by offering lactose-free and plant-based alternatives. The history of Chinese milk consumption is a powerful example of how deep-seated biological and cultural factors can influence a national diet, and how modern forces can drive profound change.
For more on how culture and biology interact to shape dietary habits, visit the National Center for Biotechnology Information.
