A Tale of Two Cooking Fats: Lard vs. Crisco
For over a century, the solid fat landscape in American kitchens has been dominated by two rivals: the natural, animal-derived lard and the industrial, vegetable-based Crisco. The perception of which is healthier has swung back and forth, from Crisco's initial marketing as a more hygienic alternative to lard, to modern concerns over trans fats. Today's answer is not as simple as choosing one over the other, but understanding the composition and history of each product.
What is Lard?
Lard is simply rendered pig fat. Its quality and flavor can vary dramatically based on the part of the pig it comes from and its processing method. Leaf lard, from around the kidneys, is considered the highest quality, prized for its neutral flavor and flaky pastry results. Modern, shelf-stable commercial lards, however, may be partially hydrogenated to extend their shelf life, which can introduce trans fats. Lard is naturally free of trans fats unless it has been hydrogenated. In terms of fat composition, lard is a surprisingly rich source of monounsaturated fats, the same heart-healthy fats found in olive oil.
Common types of lard:
- Leaf Lard: The highest grade, rendered from the fat surrounding the kidneys and loin. Prized for baking due to its mild flavor and superior flakiness.
- Fatback Lard: Made from the fat on a pig's back. Tends to have a more pronounced pork flavor and is good for savory applications.
- Processed Lard: Commercial lard that may be hydrogenated to be shelf-stable, potentially containing trans fats.
What is Crisco?
Crisco is a brand of vegetable shortening, which is an industrially processed fat made from vegetable oils like soybean and palm oil. When it was introduced, the process of hydrogenation was used to turn liquid oil into a solid fat. While Crisco was initially marketed as a healthier choice over animal fats, early formulations contained high levels of trans fats, which are now known to be highly detrimental to heart health.
However, the Crisco formula has since been changed. Modern Crisco now contains 0 grams of trans fat per serving, achieved through a process called interesterification, which rearranges fatty acids rather than hydrogenating them. Despite this improvement, some nutritionists question the long-term health effects of this processing.
A quick look at Crisco's composition:
- Vegetable Oils: Made from a blend of soybean, palm, and fully hydrogenated palm oils.
- Hydrogenation (Historical): The process used to solidify the oil in early versions, creating unhealthy trans fats.
- Interesterification (Modern): A different process used today to solidify the oil without creating trans fats.
Comparison Table: Lard vs. Crisco
| Feature | Lard (Pure, Unprocessed) | Crisco (Modern Formulation) |
|---|---|---|
| Source | Rendered pork fat | Processed vegetable oils (soybean, palm) |
| Fat Type | Saturated, monounsaturated, polyunsaturated | Saturated, monounsaturated, polyunsaturated |
| Saturated Fat (per tbsp) | ~5g | ~3.5g |
| Trans Fat | 0g (unless hydrogenated) | 0g (per FDA serving size) |
| Cholesterol | Contains cholesterol | No cholesterol |
| Processing | Rendered (melted and clarified) | Interesterification |
| Flavor | Mild, often slightly savory (leaf lard is neutral) | Neutral |
| Baking Result | Extra flaky pastry and crusts | Tender, softer baked goods and frosting |
| Use Case | Savory cooking, flaky pie crusts | Vegan baking, shortening applications, neutral frying |
Making a Healthier Choice
In the past, the choice between lard and Crisco was a debate between saturated fat (lard) and trans fat (Crisco). Today, with the removal of trans fats from Crisco, the comparison is more nuanced. Pure, unprocessed lard is a whole food, containing a mixture of saturated and monounsaturated fats. While it contains cholesterol, recent dietary guidelines place less emphasis on dietary cholesterol. The saturated fat content is comparable to, or even lower than, butter.
Modern Crisco, on the other hand, is a highly processed product. Though it has zero trans fat, it is still an industrial product with a blend of fats not naturally found together. Some studies suggest interesterified fats may have adverse effects on blood lipids, though more research is needed.
Ultimately, a whole foods approach suggests that a natural, minimally processed fat like pure lard is preferable, used in moderation. It is also important to consider that both fats, due to their calorie density, should be consumed sparingly. For a vegan or neutral-flavor application, modern trans fat-free Crisco is an acceptable substitute, but healthier vegetable-based alternatives like olive or avocado oil are often recommended for overall health.
Choosing for Your Cooking Style
Your best choice depends on what you're cooking. For deep frying, both have high smoke points, but lard may offer a richer flavor. For flaky pie crusts, many bakers swear by leaf lard. For light, tender cookies or fluffy frosting, modern Crisco is an excellent choice.
Conclusion
Is lard or Crisco healthier? The answer is not as simple as it once was. With modern formulations, the trans fat hazard of Crisco is eliminated, but it remains a highly processed product. Pure, rendered lard is a natural, whole food fat with a more balanced fatty acid profile than traditionally believed, although it is high in saturated fat. A whole-foods-focused view would lean towards high-quality, unprocessed lard in moderation. For vegan baking or a neutral fat, trans-fat-free Crisco is an option, but healthier liquid vegetable oils like olive and avocado oil are often better choices for daily cooking. Ultimately, the healthiest approach is to consume all solid fats, whether lard or Crisco, sparingly as part of a balanced diet.
Key Takeaways
- Processed vs. Natural: Lard is a rendered animal fat, a minimally processed food, while Crisco is a highly processed vegetable shortening made from oils like soybean and palm.
- Trans Fat History: Old Crisco formulations were laden with harmful trans fats, but modern Crisco contains 0g trans fat per serving.
- Saturated Fat: Both contain saturated fat, but pure lard also offers heart-healthy monounsaturated fats.
- Baking Performance: Lard is famous for creating flaky pie crusts, while Crisco is known for tender, soft baked goods.
- Moderation is Key: Both fats should be used in moderation due to their high-calorie and fat content, regardless of which you choose.
- Best for Baking: For the best, flaky baked goods, many traditional bakers prefer leaf lard.
FAQs
Question: Can I use Crisco and lard interchangeably in recipes? Answer: While often interchangeable, they produce slightly different results. Lard excels in creating flakier baked goods, while Crisco contributes to a softer, more tender texture. Crisco is also a vegan-friendly option, while lard is not.
Question: Why was Crisco originally considered healthier than lard? Answer: When Crisco was introduced, it was marketed as a modern, hygienic vegetable-based alternative to animal-derived lard. Concerns about animal fats and saturated fat, which began in the mid-20th century, further cemented this reputation, despite early Crisco containing harmful trans fats.
Question: Does Crisco still contain trans fats? Answer: Modern Crisco formulations contain 0 grams of trans fat per serving, achieved through a different processing method. However, due to FDA labeling rules, a serving can contain up to 0.5g of trans fat and still be labeled as zero.
Question: Is cholesterol in lard a major health concern? Answer: Dietary cholesterol has less impact on blood cholesterol levels for most people than previously thought. A healthy individual consuming lard in moderation is unlikely to face major issues from its cholesterol content alone, but it should still be part of a balanced diet.
Question: How is high-quality lard different from store-bought lard? Answer: High-quality lard, such as leaf lard, is minimally processed and has a neutral flavor, making it superior for baking. Some store-bought lards are hydrogenated to be shelf-stable, which can affect flavor and potentially add trace trans fats.
Question: What is a healthier alternative to both lard and Crisco? Answer: For general cooking, many nutritionists recommend unsaturated vegetable oils like olive oil or avocado oil, which are less processed and have different fat profiles. Both are liquid at room temperature and have proven health benefits when consumed as part of a balanced diet.
Question: Which fat is better for frying? Answer: Both have high smoke points suitable for frying. Lard will impart a slightly richer flavor, which can be desirable for some dishes. The choice depends on the desired flavor profile and your nutritional priorities.
